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Frommer's: The Best Trips Start Here
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Destinations from Frommer's Travel Guides Destinations from Frommer's Travel Guides Destinations from Frommer's Travel Guides
Beijing (Frommer's Favorite Experiences)
Dining and Drinking around the Back Lakes: The combination of peaceful man-made lakes, many of the city's best bars and restaurants, and several pockets of rambling lanes called hutong keep foreign residents coming back to while away their evenings here despite the growing crowds. Dine with a view of the lakes (or arrange to eat on a private traditional boat), take a post-meal stroll through the less explored lanes, then find your way back to the lakes to sip gin-and-tonics as lights from nearby courtyard mansions flicker on the water.
Enjoying a Moment of Quiet at the Museum of Ancient Architecture: Standing just west of the Temple of Heaven on grounds once nearly as extensive as those of its neighbor, the Altar of Agriculture is largely overlooked. So is its excellent museum, in halls of a grandeur to match those at the heart of the Forbidden City, but receiving fewer than one ten-thousandth of the visitors.
Investigating the Northeast Corner of the Forbidden City: Away from the main north-south axis on which stand the former palace's grander halls, there's a more human scale similar to that of the rapidly disappearing hutong beyond the palace's walls, although with much greater luxury. Usually, only independent travelers venture so far from the main arteries, but the effort to reach the northeast corner is well worth it for such treasures as an ornate theater building where the Empress Dowager Cixi watched her favorite operas on demand, and the well in which she ended the life of her nephew's favorite concubine.
Rubbing Shoulders with Monks at Beijing Temples: Among the capital's temples that have once again become genuine places of worship as well as tourist attractions, the Yonghe Gong (Lama Temple) has an active and approachable community of Tibetan monks (although under careful scrutiny by the authorities). The Bai Yun Guan is the Daoist alternative, where the blue-frocked monks wear their hair in the rarely seen traditional manner -- long and tied in a bun at the top of the head.
Bargaining for Fakes: At Panjiayuan Jiuhuo Shichang, the first asking prices for foreigners are at least 10 to 15 times those asked of Chinese, but this weekend market has the city's best selection of bric-a-brac, including row upon crowded row of calligraphy, jewelry, ceramics, teapots, ethnic clothing, Buddha statues, paper lanterns, Cultural Revolution memorabilia, army belts, little wooden boxes, Ming- and Qing-style furniture, old pipes, opium scales, painted human skulls, and more conventional souvenirs. Most of the merchandise is of recent manufacture, whatever the vendor may tell you. Bargaining fun can be had all week long at Sanlitun Yaxiu Fuzhuang Shichang, a hunting ground for souvenirs and gifts including kites, calligraphy materials, army surplus gear, tea sets, and farmer's paintings from Xi'an. The basement and the first two floors house a predictable but comprehensive collection of imitation and pilfered brand-name clothing, shoes, and luggage. Starting prices are only slightly less imaginative than those at the better-known Silk Market.
Haggling for Tea at Malian Dao: If you're serious about tea, this is the only place to go. Malian Dao may not have all the tea in China, but it does have over a mile of shops hawking tea leaves and their paraphernalia. Most shops are run by the extended families of tea growers from Fujian and Zhejiang provinces, and you may rate this friendly street the highlight of your visit.
Attending Beijing Opera at the Zhengyici Xilou: The Zhengyici, last of a handful of theaters that supported Beijing Opera from its beginnings, only occasionally hosts performances and is under constant threat of permanent closure. But the scarcity of performances only makes the experience of watching the colorful operas in this intimate, traditionally decorated space all the more precious. Get your hotel staff to call and ask.
Unwinding at a Traditional Teahouse: Several quiet teahouses offer you the chance to remove yourself temporarily from the tourist rush. The teahouse in the Sanwei Bookstore offers live traditional music with its bottomless cups of jasmine. For a little extra, the Purple Vine Tea House near the Forbidden City and The Teahouse of Family Fu in the Back Lakes area brew your Oolong (Wulong) in the Chinese version of the tea ceremony. All three teahouses are furnished with replica Ming dynasty tables and chairs and make ideal spots for reading, writing, or doing absolutely nothing.
Drinking, Smoking, and Sweating with the Beijing Punks: Despite a flowering of genres in recent years, punk rock is still the dominant musical style of Beijing, and its adherents maintain tattoo-fisted control over the city's musical momentum. Punk shows at the CD Cafe and Get Lucky Bar aren't the cleanest of affairs, but you didn't come to China to be clean, did you? They're a good release for frustrations with crooked taxi drivers and relentless souvenir peddlers, at the very least.
Hiking along the Great Wall from Jin Shan Ling to Simatai: Visitors are few at Jin Shan Ling, although the Wall runs in a continuous ribbon along a high ridge, several kilometers visible at a time. Strike out eastwards to Simatai and you'll quickly reach unrestored and crumbling sections of considerable charisma giving views across a sea of blossoms in spring, or rich reds and golds in autumn.
Taking a Trip to Chuan Di Xia: This tiny village of around a hundred souls is an ideal 1- or 2-day trip for those with a passion for Chinese vernacular architecture, or keen for a glimpse of life in rural China. Set in a narrow valley off the old trade route to Shanxi Province, Chuan Di Xia boasts the best preserved siheyuan (courtyard houses) in the Beijing region.
Source: Frommer's Beijing, 3rd Edition
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© 2000-2005 by Wiley Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.
Destinations | Hotels | Trip Ideas | Deals & News | Book a Trip | Tips & Tools | Travel Talk | Bookstore
Destinations from Frommer's Travel Guides Destinations from Frommer's Travel Guides Destinations from Frommer's Travel Guides
Beijing (Frommer's Favorite Experiences)
Dining and Drinking around the Back Lakes: The combination of peaceful man-made lakes, many of the city's best bars and restaurants, and several pockets of rambling lanes called hutong keep foreign residents coming back to while away their evenings here despite the growing crowds. Dine with a view of the lakes (or arrange to eat on a private traditional boat), take a post-meal stroll through the less explored lanes, then find your way back to the lakes to sip gin-and-tonics as lights from nearby courtyard mansions flicker on the water.
Enjoying a Moment of Quiet at the Museum of Ancient Architecture: Standing just west of the Temple of Heaven on grounds once nearly as extensive as those of its neighbor, the Altar of Agriculture is largely overlooked. So is its excellent museum, in halls of a grandeur to match those at the heart of the Forbidden City, but receiving fewer than one ten-thousandth of the visitors.
Investigating the Northeast Corner of the Forbidden City: Away from the main north-south axis on which stand the former palace's grander halls, there's a more human scale similar to that of the rapidly disappearing hutong beyond the palace's walls, although with much greater luxury. Usually, only independent travelers venture so far from the main arteries, but the effort to reach the northeast corner is well worth it for such treasures as an ornate theater building where the Empress Dowager Cixi watched her favorite operas on demand, and the well in which she ended the life of her nephew's favorite concubine.
Rubbing Shoulders with Monks at Beijing Temples: Among the capital's temples that have once again become genuine places of worship as well as tourist attractions, the Yonghe Gong (Lama Temple) has an active and approachable community of Tibetan monks (although under careful scrutiny by the authorities). The Bai Yun Guan is the Daoist alternative, where the blue-frocked monks wear their hair in the rarely seen traditional manner -- long and tied in a bun at the top of the head.
Bargaining for Fakes: At Panjiayuan Jiuhuo Shichang, the first asking prices for foreigners are at least 10 to 15 times those asked of Chinese, but this weekend market has the city's best selection of bric-a-brac, including row upon crowded row of calligraphy, jewelry, ceramics, teapots, ethnic clothing, Buddha statues, paper lanterns, Cultural Revolution memorabilia, army belts, little wooden boxes, Ming- and Qing-style furniture, old pipes, opium scales, painted human skulls, and more conventional souvenirs. Most of the merchandise is of recent manufacture, whatever the vendor may tell you. Bargaining fun can be had all week long at Sanlitun Yaxiu Fuzhuang Shichang, a hunting ground for souvenirs and gifts including kites, calligraphy materials, army surplus gear, tea sets, and farmer's paintings from Xi'an. The basement and the first two floors house a predictable but comprehensive collection of imitation and pilfered brand-name clothing, shoes, and luggage. Starting prices are only slightly less imaginative than those at the better-known Silk Market.
Haggling for Tea at Malian Dao: If you're serious about tea, this is the only place to go. Malian Dao may not have all the tea in China, but it does have over a mile of shops hawking tea leaves and their paraphernalia. Most shops are run by the extended families of tea growers from Fujian and Zhejiang provinces, and you may rate this friendly street the highlight of your visit.
Attending Beijing Opera at the Zhengyici Xilou: The Zhengyici, last of a handful of theaters that supported Beijing Opera from its beginnings, only occasionally hosts performances and is under constant threat of permanent closure. But the scarcity of performances only makes the experience of watching the colorful operas in this intimate, traditionally decorated space all the more precious. Get your hotel staff to call and ask.
Unwinding at a Traditional Teahouse: Several quiet teahouses offer you the chance to remove yourself temporarily from the tourist rush. The teahouse in the Sanwei Bookstore offers live traditional music with its bottomless cups of jasmine. For a little extra, the Purple Vine Tea House near the Forbidden City and The Teahouse of Family Fu in the Back Lakes area brew your Oolong (Wulong) in the Chinese version of the tea ceremony. All three teahouses are furnished with replica Ming dynasty tables and chairs and make ideal spots for reading, writing, or doing absolutely nothing.
Drinking, Smoking, and Sweating with the Beijing Punks: Despite a flowering of genres in recent years, punk rock is still the dominant musical style of Beijing, and its adherents maintain tattoo-fisted control over the city's musical momentum. Punk shows at the CD Cafe and Get Lucky Bar aren't the cleanest of affairs, but you didn't come to China to be clean, did you? They're a good release for frustrations with crooked taxi drivers and relentless souvenir peddlers, at the very least.
Hiking along the Great Wall from Jin Shan Ling to Simatai: Visitors are few at Jin Shan Ling, although the Wall runs in a continuous ribbon along a high ridge, several kilometers visible at a time. Strike out eastwards to Simatai and you'll quickly reach unrestored and crumbling sections of considerable charisma giving views across a sea of blossoms in spring, or rich reds and golds in autumn.
Taking a Trip to Chuan Di Xia: This tiny village of around a hundred souls is an ideal 1- or 2-day trip for those with a passion for Chinese vernacular architecture, or keen for a glimpse of life in rural China. Set in a narrow valley off the old trade route to Shanxi Province, Chuan Di Xia boasts the best preserved siheyuan (courtyard houses) in the Beijing region.
Source: Frommer's Beijing, 3rd Edition
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© 2000-2005 by Wiley Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.
