佩服:Chinese Woman Becomes First to Summit Everest After Avalanche

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http://news.nationalgeographic.com/...7news-evercw&utm_campaign=Content&sf3063504=1
NAMCHE BAZAAR—After a tragic climbing season on Mount Everest, after all the foreign guides and more than 300 high-paying clients had pulled out, a Chinese woman guided by a team of Sherpas found a way—if controversial—to get to the top of the world's tallest mountain.

Chinese mountaineer Wang Jing arrived in Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Sunday morning, after summiting Everest from the Nepal side late Friday, May 23. It was the 41-year-old Wang's third ascent of Everest. Her team avoided the icefall that killed 16 Nepali mountaineers on April 18 by flying over the dangerous stretch of the traditional route in a helicopter.

The Himalayan Times reported that Joint Secretary Madhusudan Burlakoti said that Wang Jing flew from base camp to Camp Two on May 10. Local officials confirmed that the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation authorized Wang Jing's flight. However, it's not clear whether the ministry, which certifies Everest ascents, will recognize the feat as an official summit.

In the days after the avalanche, many in the Everest mountaineering community had discussed the possibility of using helicopters to ferry supplies over the icefall to reduce the risk to Sherpas, who pass through the shifting zone of massive ice formations and deep crevasses several times during the climbing season, carrying supplies and gear from base camp to intermediary camps higher up the mountain.

Wang spoke to me after a ceremony in Namche earlier Sunday, where she was honored for donating more than $30,000 to the town's hospital. (Locals wrapped her in so many khatas—ceremonial scarves—it looked like she had a curtain around her neck.)

None of the Sherpas she hired had summited Everest before. In the beginning she was a bit scared, but she thinks of all the Sherpas as her family and trusted them, and together they succeeded.

She said she was very sad about the death of the Sherpas killed in the avalanche, but she had made extensive plans to climb all seven summits (the highest peaks on the seven continents) in six months.

80149_990x742-cb1401043778.jpg

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHIP BROWN
Wang Jing poses in Namche Bazar after her ascent of Everest, holding a bas relief plaque of the Khumbu landscape made out of recycled metal cans that were collected as part of the effort to clean Sagamartha National Park.
"I thought climbing all seven summits in six months would be easy to do, as I had a lot of experience climbing 26,000-foot (8,000 meter) peaks nine times. I thought all the other peaks on other continents would be easy in comparison, but it's not so easy now."

She said the famously difficult Hillary Step on the summit ridge of Everest was not very hard for her because she is very flexible, and to prove it she put her foot over her head.

Wang is reported to have come from a poor family in Sichuan but went on to start a multimillion-dollar outdoor clothing company called Toread. She is heading to Denali today to complete her goal of climbing all of the seven summits within a six-month period.

What will she do next year? "Next year I think maybe I will relax."

Nevertheless, the Sherpas working for her were probably very handsomely compensated to go against the unofficial moratorium on climbing Everest from Nepal. A group of climbing Sherpas had lobbied for the season to end in the wake of the tragedy, saying it was disrespectful to those who died to continue climbing this season.

Meanwhile, an American woman, Cleonice Weidlich, 51, helicoptered to Camp Two on May 8, to attempt the Lhotse Face, the world's fourth-highest peak, which is adjacent to Everest and also accessed from Camp Two.

Weidlich was helicoptered off the mountain from Camp Two on Saturday after getting a little above Camp Three, according to Tshering Tenzing Sherpa, an Everest Base Camp patrol ranger.
 
Nevertheless, the Sherpas working for her were probably very handsomely compensated to go against the unofficial moratorium on climbing Everest from Nepal. A group of climbing Sherpas had lobbied for the season to end in the wake of the tragedy, saying it was disrespectful to those who died to continue climbing this season.

款姐。。。
 
款的对!
唉!

登顶珠峰的中国女登山家王静承认乘直升机 曾否认(图)
新闻来源: 北青网 于 2014-06-06 18:51:30 大字阅读 敬请注意:新闻取自各大新闻媒体,观点内容不代表本网立场!


 
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中国女登山家王静曾经被质疑登顶珠峰过程中搭乘直升机从大本营到二号营地,她近日在接受国内媒体采访时承认这是事实,但她同时表示事出有因:由于4月珠峰发生了历史上最惨重的冰崩事故,在大本营到二号营地之间的某个地带已经完全封闭,没有其他道路可以穿越。



  王静在攀登珠峰过程中借助直升机,实质上是打破了攀登珠峰历来的一个传统:从大本营开始攀登直至峰顶。她的这种行为如果仅作为个人的攀登体验无可厚非,但如果称为成功登顶则肯定不能得到一致的认可。虽然用脚从大本营攀登到珠峰峰顶只是一条不成文的规定,但它历来是衡量攀登珠峰是否成功的第一标准和基本准则。


  此前隐瞒事实因沟通不畅


  王静在5月23日宣布从珠峰南线成功登顶,但此后尼泊尔当地媒体撰文称,据直升机驾驶员透露,王静搭乘直升机从大本营到二号营地。王静当时在接受该媒体采访时否认,她说:“直升机只是运送了背工和厨师。”


  但王静在近期接受国内媒体采访时却表达了和此前截然相反的言论。她说:“的确我是搭乘直升机从大本营到二号营地的,但并非是谣言中的直接乘机登顶。”而对于为何当初否认如今却承认的疑问,王静说:“我想这是沟通不畅造成的误解。”


  王静解释说,当时下山后接受了两名当地记者的采访,但因语言不通,又要赶飞机前往下一个攀登地点,只是通过翻译简单陈述了攀登经过,这中间可能产生了偏差。而王静表示自己之所以如此急切地攀登珠峰,是因为她要实现最快完成“7+2”的梦想。所谓“7+2”就是攀登七大洲的最高峰和到达南北极点。


  攀登珠峰成功的不成文规定


  王静乘坐直升机从大本营飞抵6400米的二号营地,再攀登到8800米以上的珠峰峰顶。此举引起巨大争议的原因在于,它打破了历来攀登珠峰的传统:用脚从大本营攀登到峰顶。即便这是一条不成文的规定,但它早已在登山界达成了共识,也是评判登山者是否登顶成功的首要标准。尼泊尔登山协会主席昂·夏尔巴在接受采访时说:“我在登山界干了41年,我要告诉你,这一点非常重要,并且从未改变过。”


  中国一位极具权威性的专家在接受北京青年报记者采访时说:“攀登珠峰肯定是要从大本营开始。虽然对于这点没有明确的规定,但是这在登山界早已形成了共识。王静这次的行为只能算是一次攀登珠峰体验,但如果要说是登顶成功,那么肯定是底气不足的,也不能被人认可。”


  业内反对颁发登顶证书


  按照程序,尼泊尔旅游局会根据攀登者的行程日记、登顶后的照片等记录材料,来判断是否应该给予其证书。目前,尼泊尔旅游局正在对王静事件进行核实、调查。而昂·夏尔巴说:“如果尼泊尔政府真给王静颁发证书,那么我无法想象接下来会发生什么,它必然会产生不好的连锁反应。”


  实际上,很多登山界的人士都有类似的担心。“如果这被认定为登顶成功的话,那么以后是不是可以乘坐直升机飞到更高的高度然后再去攀登?真这样的话,攀登珠峰就真的变味了。”国内某知名登山人士这样对北青报记者说。
 
她坐直升飞机上去的。你敬佩一下自己吧,你坐的是喷气式涡轮飞机飞越了丛洋才到这里。:D
 
下次,我坐直升飞机直接登顶。 哈哈.:)
 
我不仅仅是佩服了,我敬佩。:D
 
这脸皮有城墙厚。坐直升飞机上二号营地就是作弊。如同跑马拉松从半路起跑
 
最后编辑:
你得先查查,直升飞机能非那么高吗?:D

2005年,直升飞机就已经上去了。

2005: Helicopter landing

In May 2005, pilot Didier Delsalle of France landed a Eurocopter AS350 B3 helicopter on the summit of Mount Everest. He needed to land for two minutes to set the Fédération Aéronautique Internationale (FAI) official record, but he stayed for about four minutes, twice. In this type of landing the rotors stay engaged, which avoids relying on the snow to fully support the aircraft. The flight set rotorcraft world records, for highest of both landing and take-off.

Some press reports suggested that the report of the summit landing was a misunderstanding of a South Col landing, but he had also landed on South Col two days earlier, with this landing and the Everest records confirmed by the FAI. Delsalle also rescued two Japanese climbers at 16,000 ft (4,880 m) while he was there. One climber noted that the new record meant a better chance of rescue.
 
下回坐喷气式飞机,跳伞下去的了。
 
苹果日报报道 中国女登山家王静上月23日宣布成功登上世界最高峰圣母峰(珠穆朗玛峰),结果被踢爆她竟搭直升机协助「攻顶」。王静近日受访时坦承,「的确从大本营搭直升机到C2营地,但并非谣传中的直接坐飞机登顶。」中国网友批:「弄虚作假也能叫登山家?」

王静近日接受中新社访问时说,4月18日圣母峰尼泊尔一侧发生雪崩,造成10余人遇难,当地的雪巴人拒绝前往铺路,但「登完珠峰、再爬完(北美洲最高峰)丹奈利峰,我的地球九极(攀登七大洲最高峰和站上南北极点)挑战计划就完成了,不甘心就这样放弃。」

王静指出,她与当地一家小型登山公司合作,该公司提供2名厨师和5名具登顶经验的雪巴人支援,不料雪崩冲毁大本营与C2营地间的冰川路段,无法赶在登顶最佳时机前修通该路段,最后迫不得已决定搭直升机飞往C2营地。

坚称没说谎

王静说:「我知道这个决定会让我的攀登打折扣,但为安全,我宁愿承担这个损失。」并强调,当初没说谎,而是「沟通不良造成的误解。」

未全程用脚

《北京青年报》昨报导,王静此举引起争议的原因,在于「用脚从大本营攀登到峰顶是一条不成文规定,已成为登山界的共识,也是评判登山者是否登顶成功的首要标准。」

圣母峰高8844.43公尺,若从海拔5200公尺的大本营攻顶,须攀登的高度为3644.43公尺,若从6400公尺高的C2营地出发,则为2444.43公尺。另有一说指C2营地高7790公尺,距峰顶的垂直高度剩1054.43公尺。

尼泊尔旅游局正调查此事,尼泊尔登山协会主席昂•夏尔巴说:「若颁发证书给王静,必然会产生不好的连锁反应。」

【早前报道】
中国女登山家否认“借助直升机登顶珠峰”
来源:新京报  2014-05-30

据尼泊尔媒体29日报道称,尼泊尔旅游局27日宣布,正在调查中国女登山家王静“是否搭乘直升机登顶珠峰”。

此前,现年40岁的王静宣布于5月23日从珠峰南线成功登顶,成为今年从南线登顶珠峰的第一人。但据尼泊尔《喜马拉雅时报》报道,王静雇用的夏尔巴向导和 直升机驾驶员称,5月10日曾搭载王静飞越此前冰崩损毁路段,从大本营直接飞抵海拔6400米的二号营地,再登上8800米以上的顶峰。

英国媒体27日报道称,借助直升机攀登世界最高峰,是严重违反传统的不道德行为。但尼泊尔旅游局高级官员马蒂胡苏丹·布拉克尼说,王静本人对这一指责给予否认。

目前,尼泊尔当局正在对此进行调查,以确认王静是否使用直升机飞越了此前被冰崩事故损坏的路段,直接到达位于海拔6400米的二号营地。

【质疑】
尼泊尔远征协会:
依靠直升机不被认可为成功登顶珠峰

《每日电讯报》报道称,尼泊尔远征协会主席丹巴尔表示,依靠直升机从未被认可为成功登顶珠峰,“如果她搭直升机飞往二号营地能被承认,将来就有人会直接飞往四号营地”。

尼泊尔旅游局高级官员布拉克尼表示:“我们正向直升机公司询问,调查是否如举报所说的王静是乘坐直升机直接到达了2号营地。”

据《美国国家地理》报道称,王静所带的5名向导之前从未登顶过珠峰,这让王静一开始很害怕。但登顶成功后,她向所有的夏尔巴向导致谢,将他们称做家人。

据悉,尼泊尔当局一般只允许在紧急救援时,使用直升机到达位于海拔5400米的珠峰大本营以上的地点,以便抢救遇险的登山者,或运送登山器材和补给。而登山者需要在雪地上使用绳索和铝架梯子攀登,在冰川缝隙等地方也不例外。

王静否认借助直升机登顶

称用直升机运送厨师、挑夫以及补给

《喜马拉雅时报》报道称,5月9日王静开始攀登珠峰,雇用了5名向导和两名厨师私下安排了登山计划。珠峰南线共四个营地,此前发生冰崩事故的地点位于大本营和二号营地之间,也是攀登珠峰最难的路段之一。

布拉克尼说,王静返回大本营后否认借助直升机进行登顶,只承认用直升机向二号营地运送一名厨师、挑夫以及补给。但他拒绝透露如果王静被证实使用直升机抵达二号营地会面临什么样的后果和处罚。

接受《喜马拉雅时报》采访时,王静拒绝解释使用直升机的详情。她说:“作为一名专业的登山者,我曾经多次穿越昆布冰川,你也可以向夏尔巴向导求证我这次是如何攀爬的。对于直升机我没有什么好说的。”

美国媒体25日报道称,4月18日的冰崩事故发生后,很多公司都考虑使用直升机来穿越危险冰川运送补给物资,降低夏尔巴导游们遇到危险的可能性。

王静打算半年内登7大高峰

英国《每日电讯报》报道称,王静是北京探路者户外用品股份有限公司的联合创始人。登顶珠峰后,王静已飞往美国阿拉斯加,计划攀登北美洲第一高峰麦金利山。

王静接受美国媒体采访时称,“我认为6个月内成功登顶7大高峰是可行的,我有9次攀登海拔8000米以上高峰的经历。与这(攀登珠峰)相比,我认为其他大陆的高峰会相对容易。”

探路者公司一名工作人员对新京报记者表示,王静确是其公司领导,但其本人正在国外,无法联系。负责此次登山的人员也不在公司,公司正在核实相关信息。
 
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