do a search for flea at Yahoo or google.
I found a paper on how to deal with the problem. For example:
Inspection - Before treatment, discuss the pet's habits with family members to determine where resting and sleeping occurs most frequently. Flea activity "hot spots" can be detected by placing white socks over shoes and walking through the residence into suspected areas. Research has demonstrated that these areas will contain the highest amount of eggs, larvae and pupae even after vacuuming. Hot spots for homes with dogs are usually areas where the pet goes in and out of the house, eats, sleeps and spends time with the family at the base of furniture. For cats, check the tops of refrigerators, cabinets, book cases and higher locations.
One can monitor flea populations by placing a shallow pan of water with a little dish detergent (acts as a wetting agent which breaks water surface tension) on the floor. Position a gooseneck lamp with the light on about five to six inches above the liquid surface. Adult fleas will leap toward the light at night, fall into the detergent solution and drown. The Happy Jack and pulvex (Zema) flea trap is a commercial apparatus based on the same principle. Also, an ultralight flea trap with a green light attracts fleas into a sticky tray.
Sanitation - Before vacuuming, collect all items (toys, shoes, clothes, etc.) off the floor, under beds, furniture, in closets, etc., to ensure best access for treatment. Also cover fish tanks, remove bird cages, pet food and water dishes and wash or dry clean any pet bedding. Vacuuming carpet with a beater-bar type vacuum where the pet rests and sleeps will help control flea larvae by removing eggs and dried blood feces (larval food) plus opening up the carpet's nap for more effective insecticide treatment. Vacuuming must be performed on a regular basis every other day to be effective. Flea larvae do not move far from the site of hatching when there is adequate food (dried blood feces from adults). Research indicates larvae spend 83 percent of the time deep in the carpet at the base of fibers frequently becoming entwined within the carpet. At pupation, the larva move up the carpet fiber spinning a camouflaging cocoon around itself. Vacuum especially where lint and pet hairs accumulate along baseboards, around carpet edges, on ventilators, around heat registers, in floor cracks, and under and in furniture where the pet sleeps. After vacuuming, place the vacuum bag in a large plastic garbage bag and discard in an outdoor trash container. If the cleaner uses a liquid water medium in a plastic pan (rather than a dust bag) discard dirty water far away from the house.
Biological - Use an insect growth regulator (IGR), which is a hormone to prevent eggs from hatching and larvae from pupating into biting adults. The IGRs methoprene (Precor) and pyriproxyfen (Nylor, Archer) are odorless and nonstaining on carpets or fabrics. Methoprene usually will reduce flea populations up to 95 percent in just 14 days while pyriproxyfen, due to its photostability, lasts in carpets for many months controlling fleas. IGRs do not kill pupa or adults and are more effective when mixed with an adulticide. Ohio Pest Control operators report few homeowner call backs when using a water-based spray mixture of methoprene (Precor) and propetamphos (Safrotin). Recent research shows the new IGR pyriproxyfen mixed with permethrin will often give 90 day control. IGRs are considered biodegradable and are not known to accumulate in the food chain. Methoprene, approved by the World Health Organization (WHO), is used in drinking water in some countries for mosquito larva control. IGRs are of negligible hazard to humans, pets, and the environment. Parasitic nematodes, Steinernema carpocapsae (Biosafe, Exhibit, Vector TL) are labelled against flea larvae and pupae in the yard and garden habitats.