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The amount of research you do before buying a racquet should correspond to how seriously you play. For the casual player, a solid introduction to racquets in the detailed FAQ here (http://tennis.about.com/gi/dynamic/.../www.geocities.com/Colosseum/6350/faq_p4.html) should provide enough information to make an adequate choice. For those willing to invest more time, Racquet Research (http://tennis.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.racquetresearch.com/frmain.htm)raises a lot of interesting technical questions, but be sure to read this before accepting its conclusions.
The first time I bought a racquet, making the choice was pretty simple. As I recall, I had $12 to spend, and the store had perhaps seven models from which I could choose, all with the same head size, the same profile, nearly the same weight, and the same composition: wood. Now, the variety of head sizes, profiles, weights, and compositions is almost endless. It's a lot harder to choose the right racquet from among so many options, but almost any model you might buy today will be a lot easier to use than even the very best of the old woodies.
Amazingly enough, you can still get a racquet for $12. It will be made of aluminum, factory strung, usually with a medium-wide profile and a mid-plus to oversize head. The big discount chains always have several models under $20. If you just hit around casually now and then, you probably don't need anything more, but if you're serious about becoming a better player, you'll probably want to invest at least $70, more likely over $100.
In deciding where to shop for a "serious" racquet, you have three main choices. A local tennis shop will generally give you the best service, including the all-important option to demo several models. Some pro shops have excellent prices, but you might spend even less at one of the big mail-order houses such as Holabird Sports or Tennis Warehouse, which has a demo-by-mail option and some good racquet reviews. You can also check for sales at large, general sports stores, although their tennis expertise will generally lag far behind that at a pro shop.
A good pro shop will ask you about your playing ability and style and will be able to explain which racquet characteristics fit your game and why. A few Web sites use a similar process, including those from Head and Wilson, where they will help you choose which of their racquets suits you best. (At the Head site, go to TENNIS, then SWING STYLE.) You'll get a sense of the selection process even if you don't buy one of their racquets, and you can use that knowledge to help you use other resources, such as the very good annual Gear Guide issue from Tennis Magazine, which usually comes out in April both in print and online.
You'll also learn more than you might expect from browsing around this site's Racquet Glossary.
I would have to write a small book to cover everything you would want to know before making the best decision on a racquet. This isn't the place for a small book, so I'll just offer a few key tips that are sometimes neglected.
Look for a widely spaced (more open) stringing pattern if you want to maximize spin.
If you like going to net, maneuverability is essential, and racquets with a head-light or even balance are usually most maneuverable. For baseliners, more weight toward the racquet head (head heavy) can provide a more solid feel and more resistance to twisting on off-center hits.
If you're considering a racquet weighing less than 10.5 ounces, make sure you demo it through several matches. The closer the weight of a racquet gets to that of a ball, the less the racquet dominates a collision between the two, and the more shock goes into your arm.
Try to demo racquets strung at the middle of their recommended tension range. Most pro shops will string demos this way, but the racquet you borrow from a friend might be strung very tightly or loosely, and this will have a profound effect on how it plays.
Remember that different head sizes of the same model can play very differently.
Have fun with your new stick!
The first time I bought a racquet, making the choice was pretty simple. As I recall, I had $12 to spend, and the store had perhaps seven models from which I could choose, all with the same head size, the same profile, nearly the same weight, and the same composition: wood. Now, the variety of head sizes, profiles, weights, and compositions is almost endless. It's a lot harder to choose the right racquet from among so many options, but almost any model you might buy today will be a lot easier to use than even the very best of the old woodies.
Amazingly enough, you can still get a racquet for $12. It will be made of aluminum, factory strung, usually with a medium-wide profile and a mid-plus to oversize head. The big discount chains always have several models under $20. If you just hit around casually now and then, you probably don't need anything more, but if you're serious about becoming a better player, you'll probably want to invest at least $70, more likely over $100.
In deciding where to shop for a "serious" racquet, you have three main choices. A local tennis shop will generally give you the best service, including the all-important option to demo several models. Some pro shops have excellent prices, but you might spend even less at one of the big mail-order houses such as Holabird Sports or Tennis Warehouse, which has a demo-by-mail option and some good racquet reviews. You can also check for sales at large, general sports stores, although their tennis expertise will generally lag far behind that at a pro shop.
A good pro shop will ask you about your playing ability and style and will be able to explain which racquet characteristics fit your game and why. A few Web sites use a similar process, including those from Head and Wilson, where they will help you choose which of their racquets suits you best. (At the Head site, go to TENNIS, then SWING STYLE.) You'll get a sense of the selection process even if you don't buy one of their racquets, and you can use that knowledge to help you use other resources, such as the very good annual Gear Guide issue from Tennis Magazine, which usually comes out in April both in print and online.
You'll also learn more than you might expect from browsing around this site's Racquet Glossary.
I would have to write a small book to cover everything you would want to know before making the best decision on a racquet. This isn't the place for a small book, so I'll just offer a few key tips that are sometimes neglected.
Look for a widely spaced (more open) stringing pattern if you want to maximize spin.
If you like going to net, maneuverability is essential, and racquets with a head-light or even balance are usually most maneuverable. For baseliners, more weight toward the racquet head (head heavy) can provide a more solid feel and more resistance to twisting on off-center hits.
If you're considering a racquet weighing less than 10.5 ounces, make sure you demo it through several matches. The closer the weight of a racquet gets to that of a ball, the less the racquet dominates a collision between the two, and the more shock goes into your arm.
Try to demo racquets strung at the middle of their recommended tension range. Most pro shops will string demos this way, but the racquet you borrow from a friend might be strung very tightly or loosely, and this will have a profound effect on how it plays.
Remember that different head sizes of the same model can play very differently.
Have fun with your new stick!
