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Do It Yourself
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URL: http://www.diynet.com/diy/home_improvement/article/0,2037,DIY_13954_2971277,00.html
Nursery Needs / Installing a Door
From "DIY to the Rescue"
episode DTTR-312 -- More Projects »
Homeowners Tom and Nicole Olschewske want a real nursery for their 18-month old son Colby. The plain white walls are bad enough, but Tom tried cutting out a door to access some attic storage space and now they have an ugly hole in the wall. Not knowing how to fix it, the Olschewske’s have left the room plain and dreary for 18 months. Now the room is cold, drafty, and dull.
The DIY to the Rescue team is ready to help this family make a real nursery. The crew plans to:
Install door
Insulate nursery
Build toy box
Add decorative stars, paint and wallpaper
Tom Olschewske thought cutting a door from the bedroom to the attic would provide excess access to storage. The only problem? He couldn't figure out how to finish the job.
A small window nook became a collection area for Colby's toys and stuffed animals.
Colby has been living in a dull, uninspired bedroom for the first 18 months of his life -- but that's about to change!
The Attic Door
The crew tackles the door disaster first. Amy Devers demonstrates how to cut down a pre-hung hollow-core door; Karl Champley will Tom teach Olschewske how to install it.
Materials:
Hammer
Pry bar
Utility knife
Tape measure
Pre-hung door
Wood shims
4-foot level
Carpenter's pencil
Cut nails
Hammer
Cement screws
Drill
Latex caulk
Wood filler
Four penny nails
Door hardware (doorknob and dead bolt)
Figure A
Figure B
Figure C
Measure the width between the side jambs, the head jamb to the seal under the old threshold, and the thickness of the wall. The rough opening should be at least one inch wider and taller than the outside frame dimensions of the door to be installed. Be sure to carefully measure. Also, decide on a right-handed or left-handed swing.
After marking dimensions, score the perimeter of measurement, then score an "X" through the center (figure A) of scored perimeter. Knock out area with hammer. If necessary, use a reciprocating saw to remove threshold area.
Install jack studs if needed. Then, with the shipping brackets still attached, carefully set the door in place, centering it in the opening. If necessary, add shims under the lower side jamb until plumb and level. With a carpenter's pencil, mark a line at the top of the door then carefully remove the door.
Begin installation by first running a thick bead of latex caulk along the sub-seal at the bottom of the door opening. Then lift the door into the center of the rough opening, positioning the bottom seal first, then tilting the door into place. Check for plumb and shim the frame as necessary (figure B). Secure the door with casing nails at each shim location. Trim off excess shims using a utility knife.
Remove the shipping brace and test the operation of the door. Finally, attach the long-anchor screws (provided with the door) through the hinges and into the door framing (figure C).
Run a bead of paintable latex caulk around the entire door. Fill holes left by the screws with wood filler. Once the caulk and wood filler have dried, you can apply paint to the door and wood trim to match the color of your home. Finally, attach the knob and lock set to the new door.
Trimming Door to Size (optional)
If you find that your carpet makes the door too long, use this technique from host Amy Devers to cut it to the correct length.
Materials:
Tape measure
Wood glue
Straight edge and pencil
Sanding block
Utility knife
Medium and fine grit sand paper
Clamps
Circular saw
Figure D
Figure E
Figure F
Mark the door at the length you need to cut it down. Measure the distance from the head jamb to the floor (or carpeting) at the left and right side of the opening. Subtract 5/8 inch from each measurement (to include a 1/8-inch gap above the door plus a 1/2-inch gap below the door). Transfer dimensions to the door and connect these points with a straight edge.
To prevent the up-cutting circular saw blade from chipping the veneer, first score the surface with a utility knife (figure D), then clamp a metal ruler or other straightedge to the door on your cut line. Cut through the veneer using several passes with a utility knife. Use the same procedure to prevent chipping when cutting across the grain of a solid-wood door's vertical stiles.
Clamp a straightedge to the door to guide a circular saw along your cut line (figure E). Make sure the saw blade remains about 1/16-inch away from the cut line on the waste side.
If cut exposes the hollow portion of the door, you must reinstall the solid-wood rail from the cutoff. Start by pushing in the ribbed cardboard or wood-strip core and scraping off any glue from the inside face of the veneer.
Peel the veneer off the cutoff. Scrape and/or sand the glue residue off the rail. If the two stile sections on the ends of the rail don't just fall off, break them off.
Apply wood glue to both faces of the rail and insert it into the door bottom (figure F) until it is flush with the bottom edge. Do not push too far, as it may be difficult to pull out. Wipe off any excess glue and apply two or three clamps for at least an hour.
Use a sanding block with medium- and then fine-grit sandpaper to round over and smooth the cut edges. Seal the bottom edge of the door with a finish to match the door (varnish or primer-and-paint). If you don't, particularly with a solid wood door, the door will absorb moisture and may warp.
To print this page, select File then Print from your browser
URL: http://www.diynet.com/diy/home_improvement/article/0,2037,DIY_13954_2971277,00.html
Nursery Needs / Installing a Door
From "DIY to the Rescue"
episode DTTR-312 -- More Projects »
Homeowners Tom and Nicole Olschewske want a real nursery for their 18-month old son Colby. The plain white walls are bad enough, but Tom tried cutting out a door to access some attic storage space and now they have an ugly hole in the wall. Not knowing how to fix it, the Olschewske’s have left the room plain and dreary for 18 months. Now the room is cold, drafty, and dull.
The DIY to the Rescue team is ready to help this family make a real nursery. The crew plans to:
Install door
Insulate nursery
Build toy box
Add decorative stars, paint and wallpaper
Tom Olschewske thought cutting a door from the bedroom to the attic would provide excess access to storage. The only problem? He couldn't figure out how to finish the job.
A small window nook became a collection area for Colby's toys and stuffed animals.
Colby has been living in a dull, uninspired bedroom for the first 18 months of his life -- but that's about to change!
The Attic Door
The crew tackles the door disaster first. Amy Devers demonstrates how to cut down a pre-hung hollow-core door; Karl Champley will Tom teach Olschewske how to install it.
Materials:
Hammer
Pry bar
Utility knife
Tape measure
Pre-hung door
Wood shims
4-foot level
Carpenter's pencil
Cut nails
Hammer
Cement screws
Drill
Latex caulk
Wood filler
Four penny nails
Door hardware (doorknob and dead bolt)
Figure A
Figure B
Figure C
Measure the width between the side jambs, the head jamb to the seal under the old threshold, and the thickness of the wall. The rough opening should be at least one inch wider and taller than the outside frame dimensions of the door to be installed. Be sure to carefully measure. Also, decide on a right-handed or left-handed swing.
After marking dimensions, score the perimeter of measurement, then score an "X" through the center (figure A) of scored perimeter. Knock out area with hammer. If necessary, use a reciprocating saw to remove threshold area.
Install jack studs if needed. Then, with the shipping brackets still attached, carefully set the door in place, centering it in the opening. If necessary, add shims under the lower side jamb until plumb and level. With a carpenter's pencil, mark a line at the top of the door then carefully remove the door.
Begin installation by first running a thick bead of latex caulk along the sub-seal at the bottom of the door opening. Then lift the door into the center of the rough opening, positioning the bottom seal first, then tilting the door into place. Check for plumb and shim the frame as necessary (figure B). Secure the door with casing nails at each shim location. Trim off excess shims using a utility knife.
Remove the shipping brace and test the operation of the door. Finally, attach the long-anchor screws (provided with the door) through the hinges and into the door framing (figure C).
Run a bead of paintable latex caulk around the entire door. Fill holes left by the screws with wood filler. Once the caulk and wood filler have dried, you can apply paint to the door and wood trim to match the color of your home. Finally, attach the knob and lock set to the new door.
Trimming Door to Size (optional)
If you find that your carpet makes the door too long, use this technique from host Amy Devers to cut it to the correct length.
Materials:
Tape measure
Wood glue
Straight edge and pencil
Sanding block
Utility knife
Medium and fine grit sand paper
Clamps
Circular saw
Figure D
Figure E
Figure F
Mark the door at the length you need to cut it down. Measure the distance from the head jamb to the floor (or carpeting) at the left and right side of the opening. Subtract 5/8 inch from each measurement (to include a 1/8-inch gap above the door plus a 1/2-inch gap below the door). Transfer dimensions to the door and connect these points with a straight edge.
To prevent the up-cutting circular saw blade from chipping the veneer, first score the surface with a utility knife (figure D), then clamp a metal ruler or other straightedge to the door on your cut line. Cut through the veneer using several passes with a utility knife. Use the same procedure to prevent chipping when cutting across the grain of a solid-wood door's vertical stiles.
Clamp a straightedge to the door to guide a circular saw along your cut line (figure E). Make sure the saw blade remains about 1/16-inch away from the cut line on the waste side.
If cut exposes the hollow portion of the door, you must reinstall the solid-wood rail from the cutoff. Start by pushing in the ribbed cardboard or wood-strip core and scraping off any glue from the inside face of the veneer.
Peel the veneer off the cutoff. Scrape and/or sand the glue residue off the rail. If the two stile sections on the ends of the rail don't just fall off, break them off.
Apply wood glue to both faces of the rail and insert it into the door bottom (figure F) until it is flush with the bottom edge. Do not push too far, as it may be difficult to pull out. Wipe off any excess glue and apply two or three clamps for at least an hour.
Use a sanding block with medium- and then fine-grit sandpaper to round over and smooth the cut edges. Seal the bottom edge of the door with a finish to match the door (varnish or primer-and-paint). If you don't, particularly with a solid wood door, the door will absorb moisture and may warp.
