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Question: 1997 Chevy Blazer v6 mileage: 106,000. For the last 6 months I have been having trouble putting it into gear and dying or having to start it 3 times keeping my foot on the gas and on the brake at the same time so it does not die. Then at times when I am turning a corner it will die. It always restarts eventually but it’s dying more and more frequent. I have taken it to a mechanic and they have changed spark plugs, put in a new fuel filter, and a PCV valve. They have removed and cleaned throttle body and replace the thermostat and seal. That’s what’s on the bill anyway. I am going to take it to a different shop but would like to act like I have a clue this time.
Answer: Check your fuel pump as it may be failing. Also, check your fuel pressure regulator as it may be leaking raw fuel into the engine.
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Question: 1998 Isuzu Trooper 3.5L, V-6 mileage: 62000. After cruising 100+ miles on the highway using the cruise control, I slow down at a traffic light and the car stalls. It restarts without problem but the idle is poor and sometimes quits. This morning the car started great, but after I came out of the store and restarted, it would not idle unless I pump the gas or maintained RPM\'s above 1000. Made it home and checked all hoses and connections and started ok with good idle. Is this an IAC valve problem?
Answer: Your problem may be an IAC (idle air control) valve. Also, check for a faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling) valve that may be sticking open.
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Question: 1990 Nissan 240SX 4 cyl mileage: 134,000. We are currently here in South Korea and it is very impossible to find a good mechanic that understands our car problem (not Korean made). We recently changed the spark plugs and distributor caps. When we start our car in the morning, we don't have any problem starting the engine. But when we drove it about 15 minutes, it will stall and die and won't start. It will start running again if we wait for at least 3 hours or more.
Answer: You must determine if your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark. If fuel is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc. If no spark, check the coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc.
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Question: Saturn, SW1, V4, 1994, 95,000 mileage. I have an intermittent problem that has been occurring since I originally bought the car at 45 K Mileage. I will do my best to describe the problem. I have a full tank of gas, as soon as I use one gallon of gas the problem occurs, and the car acts as if I had no gas. My tachometer moves up and down automatically, if I press the gas pedal during this problem the tachometer moves up and down even more frantically, eventually the car stalls, and the problem usually reoccurs immediately. To correct this problem I refill the car with gas. This problem has gone away for three months and now its back. 8 months ago I brought the car to a Saturn dealership and they where unable to duplicate the problem, and did not identify the problem; thus, returned the car to me with the problem still haunting my car. Since I originally discovered the problem, the following has been replaced alternator; starter twice; belts; sensors. Do you have any suggestions that may help me in identifying the problem and fixing the problem? Jonathan
Answer: Form what you have described; we would first check the fuel pump pressure when the problem is occurring. Chances are your fuel pump is faulty.
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Question: 1989 Ford Tempo mileage: 143,000. The car stalls when you come to a stop while driving. It can be started right away and I can be on my way until I have to stop again. I can drive the car back and forth in the drive way and it will not stall when I stop it, only when I have been driving then come to a stop does this problem occur. Any hints?
Answer: Many things can cause the stalling you described. Have you had a tune up lately? You may have a sticking idle speed control motor, a faulty ERG valve, a faulty fuel pump, a lock-up converter in the transmission not unlocking (if automatic) to name the usual suspects.
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Question: 1990 Escort 1.9CFI mileage: 104,000: Last winter when it was very cold, around zero degrees F, car would start fine but quit within 10 seconds. Would start fine and quit again. Engine would quit running unless accelerator is" pumped". Holding it in any one position would cause the engine to die. Once engine warmed it ran ok. This only happened a few times and went away over the summer. This fall a different problem started. The engine would not slow down for about 30 seconds after the accelerator was stepped on. This was whether it was in gear driving or in neutral. It acted similar having to a vacuum leak but vacuum is ok. A 1988 Escort had the same drivability problem and the PCV valve was the problem but this car doesn't have that problem. There is no problem with linkages binding. KOEO test showed not enough throttle movement/TPS. TPS was replaced and harness circuits are ok. Still had problem. I noticed the end of the throttle shaft looked corroded ad thin so built it back up with JB Weld. The engine continuing to run fast problem quit and the code cleared, but now the previous problem is back only worse, it doesn't get better when it warms up. KOEO code reads TPS. I took the old TPS and slotted the mounting holes so it could be adjusted. With very minimum adjustment, the codes change from TPS movement to throttle plate not closing completely. Like there is no middle ground to satisfy the computer. There is 4.9 volts into the TPS. Wires check ok to computer. KOER codes read TPS and Loss of SPOUT. TFI ignition module checks ok and new module does not help. Outside temperature is about 30. I have taken the computer out and tried warming it but it didn't help. Fuel pressure appears t be ok and can see good spray from the injector until engine dies. Engine did continue to run during the KOER test, while the scan tool was hooked up. Currently the engine starts easy, runs good at about 1200-1400 rpm and gradually slows after about 20 seconds like normal until it get to about 1000 rpm then it drops to about 400 rpm speeds up quickly to about 1300 rpm, stumbles while trying to slow and dies. I haven't checked the distributor pick up or tried changing the computer. Is there a way to check the computer or do you have any ideas? A parts guy said he had the same problems and a FORD mechanic had it 3 days and couldn't fix it so he sold it during the summer when it ran. I have tested resistance on the temperature sensors and they checked ok. Timing belt was changed 20,000 miles prior to these problems and hasn't been checked but have no indications it jumped.
Answer: The idling and dying problem is probably due to a faulty idle speed motor. A fuel delivery problem is most likely causing the stalling. Check the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump.
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Question: 1997 Dodge Caravan 3.3 liter V6 mileage 66,595: Hi guys... I've read through a bunch of your previous answers and can see some similarities, but I'm still not quite sure which solution to try next. I have a problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan (3.3 Liter V6 with 66,595 miles) - it stalls occasionally when sitting at a stop light/sign and when going under 10 mph in traffic or when slowing down to turn a corner. The engine will also occasionally race or buck forward, usually while traveling at around 45 mph (the Check Engine light will occasionally come on when it races forward). Three different auto mechanics (including the Dodge/Chrysler dealer) have tried to correct this. It's had a tune up, the timing has been checked, the Cam Sensor and Crank Sensor have been tested using a computer - no code came up to reveal an error, fuel filter has been replaced, and the throttle body has been cleaned/serviced. Can this problem be fixed or is it a common glitch with Chrysler products of this particular year (and something I have to live with)?
Answer: Based on what you have told us, we suspect a faulty fuel pump and or oxygen sensor - hard to tell for sure without running some tests.
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Question: 1985 Jaguar XJS V12 mileage: 66,000. Car will start and run sometimes dying right away or might drive 4 or 5 miles before it dies. I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter (one in trunk), and checked all relays. You can turn the key off and it will start right back up. Sometimes it will run right away and sometimes it dies again. Is there another filter in the fuel system? What else should I check?
Answer: There is only one fuel filter, the one in the trunk. You should check for spark when you experience the no start condition. You may have a bad ignition module or pick-up coil.
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Question: 1989 Pontiac Firebird 2.8. Hi guys, a friend replaced the serpentine belt. He also messed with and messed up the coil wire. He put a coil wire on that did not fit my car. On the way home that night my car died three times. I would place the coil wire back on the center of the distributor cap each time and that would get it going again. But, the next time I drove it I had to put the coil wire back on 10 times at least and then even that did not help it run again. I bought a new distributor cap, rotor and coil wire. Now my car will go 1 to 2 miles. Then it starts cutting out, backfiring and dies. The plugs and wires were checked and were firing correctly. "They" say it's the fuel filter, timing, and the last opinion was the catalytic converter getting hot (since it runs ok briefly). What do you guys think? I figured out how to get the ECM codes to display. The codes are: code 22, throttle position sensor, voltage low or fuel cut off relay circuit open or shorted to ground. And, code 34, manifold air pressure sensor voltage high, pressure high/vacuum low or MAF signal high--flow low. The code descriptions indicate to me something isn't flowing right, not grounded, pressure/vacuum problems.
Answer: You may have a faulty manifold air-pressure sensor or possibly even a faulty fuel pump.
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Question: 1984 Ford Mustang 289 mileage: 1500. I have recently installed a modified 1967, 289 into my 84' GT. I had the block bored 40 over with Keith Black hypereutectic pistons. My cam is a Comp Magnum 270h, which puts out about .501 lifts w/ 270 duration. I have the 289 hi-po heads port matched and polished w/ a Weiand stealth intake. A Carter 625 runs the fuel. When I start the motor, the engine will jump to about 2500 rpm, and then if I try to kick it down, the motor stalls. It will also stall on its own if I let run. Initially, I assumed it to be either a carburetor problem, or a timing problem, but I have reached the end of my rope and patience. Everything has been checked two times over, including manifold leaks, fuel pump, fuel filter, cam lobe wear, compression, and timing, and still no results! The last time I had the car running, however, I did notice that four of my cylinders weren't fully firing until the rpms were kicked up (I gave it the old spit on the header test), and I was continually checking my plugs and the spark to each cylinder, and all were good! If you can solve this puzzle, or have any idea, you can have the car! (Not really but any help will be greatly appreciated!)
Answer: First check for a vacuum leak. If your engine is equipped with an EGR valve, be sure that it is closed when it is trying to idle. If there is no vacuum leak and the EGR valve checks out okay, check the carburetor. With the camshaft that you are running, the manifold vacuum will be low and possibly may be opening the power circuits in the carburetor. Check the idle circuit as only half the carburetor may be working at low speed. In addition, double check to make sure your valves are properly set - not too tight.
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Question: 1994 Plymouth Acclaim 3.0 mileage: 102,000 km. Today my wife was driving to work, and it was wet. On her way the car stalled. She tried to start it numerous times but nothing. After contacting me, I arrived about 15 minutes later. When trying to start the car all it would do is turn over with limited response. Then I pressed the gas to the floor and it started. We traded cars and on the way back to work the tachometer would briefly stop working and then resume. Could this be a bad ground somewhere? Code 55 came up when I did the key on/off check and there was no problem on my way home. This car is never driven by me, only my wife. Can you please help us?
Answer: Check the controller by the battery as it may be failing. If it is okay, the cam and/or the crank angle sensor may be the culprit.
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Question: 1994 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L mileage: 84,000. My Intrepid's symptoms: 1. It quits running at any time usually within the first 30 minutes of being started from cold. Problem so far has not happened after the engine has been running for longer than this. 2. Using a code reader I find that the No. 11 - Ignition Reference Signal - fault code is set and no other code. Furthermore, this seems to only happen when the engine completely quits. If it just stumbles and does not quit no fault code is set. Actions taken: Assuming that the fault code may be a result of the engine shut down and not the cause, I have replaced some easy items like the fuel filter and the Auto Shutdown Relay. It has stumbled once since then so I think that the problem is not solved. Other questions: Does the 1994 Intrepid have a separate Ignition Module and where is it? I was told it did not. (I inherited the car and don't know it well yet).
Answer: First check the ignition switch. If this is okay, replace the cam and crank angle sensors and the ignition coil pod. The ignition module is not separate. It is part of the computer.
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Question: 1988 Ford Mustang 5.0: (mass air) won't idle properly... idles rough at 700 rpm, stalls out when you come to a stop from freeway speeds. Also sometimes when you crank it, it wont idle at all unless you hit the gas pedal for a few seconds. motor is brand new, injectors and fuel pressure checked out within spec.
Answer: We are assuming here that your engine has been modified probably with a non-stock cam shaft. If this is the case, what is probably happening with your car is the valve overlap with the non-stock cam shaft is allowing unburned fuel out the exhaust at idle. The oxygen sensor reads the rich mixture and the computer attempts to adjust the fuel to air ratio but it is beyond specifications. The computer will finally go to full lean which will cause your car to die.
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Question: 1998 Dodge/Intrepid V6 mileage: 66,000. After 200 miles of driving at 70 MPH, my Intrepid began missing, the check engine light started blinking, and eventually died. After a couple minutes, it restarted, but ran very rough till I got it to a station. Man suggested bad gas. I topped off the tank and after about 15 minutes got underway again for another 25 miles with no other problems until I got to my destination. The check engine light eventually went off. I drove around town for 3 days (no long drives) with no additional problems. Once I headed for home on the interstate, after about 30 miles the same problem arose. I coasted to a station, topped off the tank and headed out again. After about 20 miles, same problem. This time I just waited about 10 minutes and headed out again. After about 20 more miles I had the same problem. It seems that after cooling down, the car would run fine for about 20 miles, then the problem would come up again. The manual says a blinking "check engine" light is a bad catalytic converter. Dodge technician says a bad fuel pump. Converter is under warranty, fuel pump is not. Any suggestions?
Answer: From what you have described, your problem does not sound like it could be the catalytic converter. The check engine light indicates a malfunction in the engine management system which will store a fault code. Scan the computer to retrieve the codes before replacing the fuel pump.
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Question: 1994 BMW 325i four-door 2.5L mileage: 121,000. Last night on my way home I was traveling at a fairly high speed when I shifted into third instead of fifth gear. I pushed in the clutch before it fully engaged but the revs still went to red line. Once I pulled in to my neighborhood, my car stalled and was very difficult to start. I got it running and nursed it about 100 yards to my house. Now my car idles very rough and acts like it is only running on five cylinders. I also have a smell of un-burnt gas coming from the car. Could some thing have burst or come disconnected to cause this problem? What should I look for and if I cannot find the problem, should I have the car towed to my mechanic or is it ok to drive it there?
Answer: We would check the compression first. It is possible that when the engine over-revved, one or more valves were bent.
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Question: '91 Chevrolet Camaro 3.1 v6 mileage: 149,000. I have replaced the O² sensor, ECM, map sensor, throttle position sensor, checked all wires for shorts or grounds, all vacuum hoses and around intake for vacuum leaks. The car starts and idles fine, revs up when given fuel with out hesitation. Put the vehicle in gear and everything is fine, but as soon as the car moves from its position, even coasting a foot it shuts completely down. I have run diagnostics, and the codes I receive are for the parts I have already replaced, 22 and 34.
Answer: Try unplugging the speedometer sensor in the tail housing of the transmission. If this does not fix your problem, try unplugging the electrical connector on the side of the transmission closed to the bell housing. If your lock-up converter is malfunctioning, this procedure will isolate the problem.
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Question: 1993 Ford Probe 2.0 mileage: 144,000. My car just stopped, I found the fuel cutoff switch tripped in the trunk, but I still am not hearing the fuel pump. And the fuel cutoff light is still on. What next?
Answer: Check for 12-volts to the fuel pump while cranking the engine over. If 12 volts is present, replace the fuel pump. If you don't have 12-volts, check the fuel pump relay.
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Question: 1997 Ford Contour V6 mileage: 126,000. It's 70 degrees here, and my car stalled twice on the side streets while driving. However, the next time I drove it, it was fine. It does not sound rough or shaky before it stalls either, and starts right up after it stalls. I took it to the dealer, they ran it through the computer, and they said no problems showed up. Is there anything I can ask them to check that the computer might have missed? I frequently have my oil changed, but have never had a tune-up.
Answer: If you have not changed the fuel filter, your fuel pump is probably failing due to excess pressure of a plugged filter. A fuel pump failure will not show up on the diagnostic test.
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Question: 1991 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 4 cyl. My car will start strong and drive well until the engine gets normal temperature. I try to stop and the car will jerk and stall if I don't flip the trans to neutral. Sometimes I can stop while the trans is in neutral and I can put it back in drive and proceed. This only works a couple times. Then when I stop I put it in drive and it will stall. Now I need to wait until it cools down. I changed the ignition module and now it runs a little smoother in idle. I read the forum and saw that it could be the TCC solenoid. Where is the TCC solenoid? I looked in my book and can't seem to find it.
Answer: The TCC solenoid is located in the transmission on the valve body. To verify that this is causing your problem, disconnect the four wire plug that plugs into the side of the transmission and drive the car. If your problem is cured, replace the solenoid.
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Question: 1995 Pontiac/Transport 6 cyl. mileage: 86,000. Goes back several months along the lines of the following: 3/24 Died while driving (started after several attempts); 3/25 Would not start. (same); 3/27 Would not start (same); 3/29 Died while driving.(same); 3/31 Would not start.(same); 4/1 Died while at stop light (same); 4/2 Died while driving (same). Sometimes it will start after trying a few times; sometimes you wait a few hours. Mechanic said there was nothing wrong with fuel pump. Could he be wrong? What do you suggest?
Answer: The fuel pump needs to be checked when the no-start condition occurs. (Obviously, if the pump is checked while the car is running it will check okay.) If the pump checks okay, then check for spark at the spark plugs.
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Question: 1989 Toyota 4-Runner 22re mileage: 174,000. My 4-Runner has started to miss/stumble when accelerating, doesn't seem to miss/stumble once you reach a constant speed, doesn't miss/skip when idling, just had it tuned up not to long ago (it should not need another one this soon) when going up hills there is a strong smell like sulfur/rotten eggs, I think it's my catalytic converter, short of replacing it is there anyway to unplug one? It also leaks oil from front cover could the clogged converter cause this oil leak? Also I have had my exhaust welded several times seems to keep getting holes in it always before the catalytic converter, could that be due to a plugged catalytic converter? What would be a reasonable cost to replace converter? Ballpark figure, can I buy a used catalytic converter from the junkyard? Is there a way for my mechanic to check for plugged catalytic converter without drilling a hole in exhaust? Probably wouldn't have to drill a hole since it already has one! Please help, my husband says it isn't the catalytic converter, could it just be a problem with fuel mixture, it is fuel injected. Jackie
Answer: It appears from what you have told us that your engine is running rich. We would bet your gas mileage is very low. You may have a bad oxygen or coolant sensor or a partially plugged catalytic converter.
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Question: 1998 Jaguar XJ8 V8 mileage: 17,000. The engine suddenly stalls with no warning. It seems to happen within 5 miles of starting the car, usually in cool weather (45-50F). The dealer has not been able to isolate the cause, but has replaced the throttle body and a relay.
Answer: If your car had 50,000 miles, we would suspect the fuel pump.
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Question: 1996 Ford/Contour V6 mileage: 80,000. I have had a recurring, but intermittent problem the last two winters. I live in a cold weather climate (MN) and often have my car parked outside overnight. I always warm my car up at least 5 to 10 minutes before driving. When decelerating at low speeds (10 to 0 or 5 to 0) a high pitched whine will come from the engine. Pressing on the accelerator will cause the whining to stop. On two occasions, I have not been able to safely press the accelerator, the whine continues, and eventually the engine hesitates and stalls. I have been able to restart when that happens, however the last time it occurred, the car would not restart after I had made a stop (ignition off) about 10 minutes later. I had to have the car jumped. This only occurs in winter, when the temperature drops to around 30 degrees. I have had two mechanics take a look at it. The last mechanic I took it two said it was the alternator and replaced it. That was last year. It occurred once or twice last year after the replacement, and is now doing it again this winter. Any ideas?
Answer: The noise that you are hearing is from the idle speed control motor. The stalling is probably your fuel pump.
Question: 1997 Chevy Blazer v6 mileage: 106,000. For the last 6 months I have been having trouble putting it into gear and dying or having to start it 3 times keeping my foot on the gas and on the brake at the same time so it does not die. Then at times when I am turning a corner it will die. It always restarts eventually but it’s dying more and more frequent. I have taken it to a mechanic and they have changed spark plugs, put in a new fuel filter, and a PCV valve. They have removed and cleaned throttle body and replace the thermostat and seal. That’s what’s on the bill anyway. I am going to take it to a different shop but would like to act like I have a clue this time.
Answer: Check your fuel pump as it may be failing. Also, check your fuel pressure regulator as it may be leaking raw fuel into the engine.
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Question: 1998 Isuzu Trooper 3.5L, V-6 mileage: 62000. After cruising 100+ miles on the highway using the cruise control, I slow down at a traffic light and the car stalls. It restarts without problem but the idle is poor and sometimes quits. This morning the car started great, but after I came out of the store and restarted, it would not idle unless I pump the gas or maintained RPM\'s above 1000. Made it home and checked all hoses and connections and started ok with good idle. Is this an IAC valve problem?
Answer: Your problem may be an IAC (idle air control) valve. Also, check for a faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling) valve that may be sticking open.
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Question: 1990 Nissan 240SX 4 cyl mileage: 134,000. We are currently here in South Korea and it is very impossible to find a good mechanic that understands our car problem (not Korean made). We recently changed the spark plugs and distributor caps. When we start our car in the morning, we don't have any problem starting the engine. But when we drove it about 15 minutes, it will stall and die and won't start. It will start running again if we wait for at least 3 hours or more.
Answer: You must determine if your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark. If fuel is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc. If no spark, check the coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc.
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Question: Saturn, SW1, V4, 1994, 95,000 mileage. I have an intermittent problem that has been occurring since I originally bought the car at 45 K Mileage. I will do my best to describe the problem. I have a full tank of gas, as soon as I use one gallon of gas the problem occurs, and the car acts as if I had no gas. My tachometer moves up and down automatically, if I press the gas pedal during this problem the tachometer moves up and down even more frantically, eventually the car stalls, and the problem usually reoccurs immediately. To correct this problem I refill the car with gas. This problem has gone away for three months and now its back. 8 months ago I brought the car to a Saturn dealership and they where unable to duplicate the problem, and did not identify the problem; thus, returned the car to me with the problem still haunting my car. Since I originally discovered the problem, the following has been replaced alternator; starter twice; belts; sensors. Do you have any suggestions that may help me in identifying the problem and fixing the problem? Jonathan
Answer: Form what you have described; we would first check the fuel pump pressure when the problem is occurring. Chances are your fuel pump is faulty.
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Question: 1989 Ford Tempo mileage: 143,000. The car stalls when you come to a stop while driving. It can be started right away and I can be on my way until I have to stop again. I can drive the car back and forth in the drive way and it will not stall when I stop it, only when I have been driving then come to a stop does this problem occur. Any hints?
Answer: Many things can cause the stalling you described. Have you had a tune up lately? You may have a sticking idle speed control motor, a faulty ERG valve, a faulty fuel pump, a lock-up converter in the transmission not unlocking (if automatic) to name the usual suspects.
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Question: 1990 Escort 1.9CFI mileage: 104,000: Last winter when it was very cold, around zero degrees F, car would start fine but quit within 10 seconds. Would start fine and quit again. Engine would quit running unless accelerator is" pumped". Holding it in any one position would cause the engine to die. Once engine warmed it ran ok. This only happened a few times and went away over the summer. This fall a different problem started. The engine would not slow down for about 30 seconds after the accelerator was stepped on. This was whether it was in gear driving or in neutral. It acted similar having to a vacuum leak but vacuum is ok. A 1988 Escort had the same drivability problem and the PCV valve was the problem but this car doesn't have that problem. There is no problem with linkages binding. KOEO test showed not enough throttle movement/TPS. TPS was replaced and harness circuits are ok. Still had problem. I noticed the end of the throttle shaft looked corroded ad thin so built it back up with JB Weld. The engine continuing to run fast problem quit and the code cleared, but now the previous problem is back only worse, it doesn't get better when it warms up. KOEO code reads TPS. I took the old TPS and slotted the mounting holes so it could be adjusted. With very minimum adjustment, the codes change from TPS movement to throttle plate not closing completely. Like there is no middle ground to satisfy the computer. There is 4.9 volts into the TPS. Wires check ok to computer. KOER codes read TPS and Loss of SPOUT. TFI ignition module checks ok and new module does not help. Outside temperature is about 30. I have taken the computer out and tried warming it but it didn't help. Fuel pressure appears t be ok and can see good spray from the injector until engine dies. Engine did continue to run during the KOER test, while the scan tool was hooked up. Currently the engine starts easy, runs good at about 1200-1400 rpm and gradually slows after about 20 seconds like normal until it get to about 1000 rpm then it drops to about 400 rpm speeds up quickly to about 1300 rpm, stumbles while trying to slow and dies. I haven't checked the distributor pick up or tried changing the computer. Is there a way to check the computer or do you have any ideas? A parts guy said he had the same problems and a FORD mechanic had it 3 days and couldn't fix it so he sold it during the summer when it ran. I have tested resistance on the temperature sensors and they checked ok. Timing belt was changed 20,000 miles prior to these problems and hasn't been checked but have no indications it jumped.
Answer: The idling and dying problem is probably due to a faulty idle speed motor. A fuel delivery problem is most likely causing the stalling. Check the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump.
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Question: 1997 Dodge Caravan 3.3 liter V6 mileage 66,595: Hi guys... I've read through a bunch of your previous answers and can see some similarities, but I'm still not quite sure which solution to try next. I have a problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan (3.3 Liter V6 with 66,595 miles) - it stalls occasionally when sitting at a stop light/sign and when going under 10 mph in traffic or when slowing down to turn a corner. The engine will also occasionally race or buck forward, usually while traveling at around 45 mph (the Check Engine light will occasionally come on when it races forward). Three different auto mechanics (including the Dodge/Chrysler dealer) have tried to correct this. It's had a tune up, the timing has been checked, the Cam Sensor and Crank Sensor have been tested using a computer - no code came up to reveal an error, fuel filter has been replaced, and the throttle body has been cleaned/serviced. Can this problem be fixed or is it a common glitch with Chrysler products of this particular year (and something I have to live with)?
Answer: Based on what you have told us, we suspect a faulty fuel pump and or oxygen sensor - hard to tell for sure without running some tests.
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Question: 1985 Jaguar XJS V12 mileage: 66,000. Car will start and run sometimes dying right away or might drive 4 or 5 miles before it dies. I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter (one in trunk), and checked all relays. You can turn the key off and it will start right back up. Sometimes it will run right away and sometimes it dies again. Is there another filter in the fuel system? What else should I check?
Answer: There is only one fuel filter, the one in the trunk. You should check for spark when you experience the no start condition. You may have a bad ignition module or pick-up coil.
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Question: 1989 Pontiac Firebird 2.8. Hi guys, a friend replaced the serpentine belt. He also messed with and messed up the coil wire. He put a coil wire on that did not fit my car. On the way home that night my car died three times. I would place the coil wire back on the center of the distributor cap each time and that would get it going again. But, the next time I drove it I had to put the coil wire back on 10 times at least and then even that did not help it run again. I bought a new distributor cap, rotor and coil wire. Now my car will go 1 to 2 miles. Then it starts cutting out, backfiring and dies. The plugs and wires were checked and were firing correctly. "They" say it's the fuel filter, timing, and the last opinion was the catalytic converter getting hot (since it runs ok briefly). What do you guys think? I figured out how to get the ECM codes to display. The codes are: code 22, throttle position sensor, voltage low or fuel cut off relay circuit open or shorted to ground. And, code 34, manifold air pressure sensor voltage high, pressure high/vacuum low or MAF signal high--flow low. The code descriptions indicate to me something isn't flowing right, not grounded, pressure/vacuum problems.
Answer: You may have a faulty manifold air-pressure sensor or possibly even a faulty fuel pump.
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Question: 1984 Ford Mustang 289 mileage: 1500. I have recently installed a modified 1967, 289 into my 84' GT. I had the block bored 40 over with Keith Black hypereutectic pistons. My cam is a Comp Magnum 270h, which puts out about .501 lifts w/ 270 duration. I have the 289 hi-po heads port matched and polished w/ a Weiand stealth intake. A Carter 625 runs the fuel. When I start the motor, the engine will jump to about 2500 rpm, and then if I try to kick it down, the motor stalls. It will also stall on its own if I let run. Initially, I assumed it to be either a carburetor problem, or a timing problem, but I have reached the end of my rope and patience. Everything has been checked two times over, including manifold leaks, fuel pump, fuel filter, cam lobe wear, compression, and timing, and still no results! The last time I had the car running, however, I did notice that four of my cylinders weren't fully firing until the rpms were kicked up (I gave it the old spit on the header test), and I was continually checking my plugs and the spark to each cylinder, and all were good! If you can solve this puzzle, or have any idea, you can have the car! (Not really but any help will be greatly appreciated!)
Answer: First check for a vacuum leak. If your engine is equipped with an EGR valve, be sure that it is closed when it is trying to idle. If there is no vacuum leak and the EGR valve checks out okay, check the carburetor. With the camshaft that you are running, the manifold vacuum will be low and possibly may be opening the power circuits in the carburetor. Check the idle circuit as only half the carburetor may be working at low speed. In addition, double check to make sure your valves are properly set - not too tight.
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Question: 1994 Plymouth Acclaim 3.0 mileage: 102,000 km. Today my wife was driving to work, and it was wet. On her way the car stalled. She tried to start it numerous times but nothing. After contacting me, I arrived about 15 minutes later. When trying to start the car all it would do is turn over with limited response. Then I pressed the gas to the floor and it started. We traded cars and on the way back to work the tachometer would briefly stop working and then resume. Could this be a bad ground somewhere? Code 55 came up when I did the key on/off check and there was no problem on my way home. This car is never driven by me, only my wife. Can you please help us?
Answer: Check the controller by the battery as it may be failing. If it is okay, the cam and/or the crank angle sensor may be the culprit.
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Question: 1994 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L mileage: 84,000. My Intrepid's symptoms: 1. It quits running at any time usually within the first 30 minutes of being started from cold. Problem so far has not happened after the engine has been running for longer than this. 2. Using a code reader I find that the No. 11 - Ignition Reference Signal - fault code is set and no other code. Furthermore, this seems to only happen when the engine completely quits. If it just stumbles and does not quit no fault code is set. Actions taken: Assuming that the fault code may be a result of the engine shut down and not the cause, I have replaced some easy items like the fuel filter and the Auto Shutdown Relay. It has stumbled once since then so I think that the problem is not solved. Other questions: Does the 1994 Intrepid have a separate Ignition Module and where is it? I was told it did not. (I inherited the car and don't know it well yet).
Answer: First check the ignition switch. If this is okay, replace the cam and crank angle sensors and the ignition coil pod. The ignition module is not separate. It is part of the computer.
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Question: 1988 Ford Mustang 5.0: (mass air) won't idle properly... idles rough at 700 rpm, stalls out when you come to a stop from freeway speeds. Also sometimes when you crank it, it wont idle at all unless you hit the gas pedal for a few seconds. motor is brand new, injectors and fuel pressure checked out within spec.
Answer: We are assuming here that your engine has been modified probably with a non-stock cam shaft. If this is the case, what is probably happening with your car is the valve overlap with the non-stock cam shaft is allowing unburned fuel out the exhaust at idle. The oxygen sensor reads the rich mixture and the computer attempts to adjust the fuel to air ratio but it is beyond specifications. The computer will finally go to full lean which will cause your car to die.
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Question: 1998 Dodge/Intrepid V6 mileage: 66,000. After 200 miles of driving at 70 MPH, my Intrepid began missing, the check engine light started blinking, and eventually died. After a couple minutes, it restarted, but ran very rough till I got it to a station. Man suggested bad gas. I topped off the tank and after about 15 minutes got underway again for another 25 miles with no other problems until I got to my destination. The check engine light eventually went off. I drove around town for 3 days (no long drives) with no additional problems. Once I headed for home on the interstate, after about 30 miles the same problem arose. I coasted to a station, topped off the tank and headed out again. After about 20 miles, same problem. This time I just waited about 10 minutes and headed out again. After about 20 more miles I had the same problem. It seems that after cooling down, the car would run fine for about 20 miles, then the problem would come up again. The manual says a blinking "check engine" light is a bad catalytic converter. Dodge technician says a bad fuel pump. Converter is under warranty, fuel pump is not. Any suggestions?
Answer: From what you have described, your problem does not sound like it could be the catalytic converter. The check engine light indicates a malfunction in the engine management system which will store a fault code. Scan the computer to retrieve the codes before replacing the fuel pump.
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Question: 1994 BMW 325i four-door 2.5L mileage: 121,000. Last night on my way home I was traveling at a fairly high speed when I shifted into third instead of fifth gear. I pushed in the clutch before it fully engaged but the revs still went to red line. Once I pulled in to my neighborhood, my car stalled and was very difficult to start. I got it running and nursed it about 100 yards to my house. Now my car idles very rough and acts like it is only running on five cylinders. I also have a smell of un-burnt gas coming from the car. Could some thing have burst or come disconnected to cause this problem? What should I look for and if I cannot find the problem, should I have the car towed to my mechanic or is it ok to drive it there?
Answer: We would check the compression first. It is possible that when the engine over-revved, one or more valves were bent.
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Question: '91 Chevrolet Camaro 3.1 v6 mileage: 149,000. I have replaced the O² sensor, ECM, map sensor, throttle position sensor, checked all wires for shorts or grounds, all vacuum hoses and around intake for vacuum leaks. The car starts and idles fine, revs up when given fuel with out hesitation. Put the vehicle in gear and everything is fine, but as soon as the car moves from its position, even coasting a foot it shuts completely down. I have run diagnostics, and the codes I receive are for the parts I have already replaced, 22 and 34.
Answer: Try unplugging the speedometer sensor in the tail housing of the transmission. If this does not fix your problem, try unplugging the electrical connector on the side of the transmission closed to the bell housing. If your lock-up converter is malfunctioning, this procedure will isolate the problem.
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Question: 1993 Ford Probe 2.0 mileage: 144,000. My car just stopped, I found the fuel cutoff switch tripped in the trunk, but I still am not hearing the fuel pump. And the fuel cutoff light is still on. What next?
Answer: Check for 12-volts to the fuel pump while cranking the engine over. If 12 volts is present, replace the fuel pump. If you don't have 12-volts, check the fuel pump relay.
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Question: 1997 Ford Contour V6 mileage: 126,000. It's 70 degrees here, and my car stalled twice on the side streets while driving. However, the next time I drove it, it was fine. It does not sound rough or shaky before it stalls either, and starts right up after it stalls. I took it to the dealer, they ran it through the computer, and they said no problems showed up. Is there anything I can ask them to check that the computer might have missed? I frequently have my oil changed, but have never had a tune-up.
Answer: If you have not changed the fuel filter, your fuel pump is probably failing due to excess pressure of a plugged filter. A fuel pump failure will not show up on the diagnostic test.
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Question: 1991 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 4 cyl. My car will start strong and drive well until the engine gets normal temperature. I try to stop and the car will jerk and stall if I don't flip the trans to neutral. Sometimes I can stop while the trans is in neutral and I can put it back in drive and proceed. This only works a couple times. Then when I stop I put it in drive and it will stall. Now I need to wait until it cools down. I changed the ignition module and now it runs a little smoother in idle. I read the forum and saw that it could be the TCC solenoid. Where is the TCC solenoid? I looked in my book and can't seem to find it.
Answer: The TCC solenoid is located in the transmission on the valve body. To verify that this is causing your problem, disconnect the four wire plug that plugs into the side of the transmission and drive the car. If your problem is cured, replace the solenoid.
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Question: 1995 Pontiac/Transport 6 cyl. mileage: 86,000. Goes back several months along the lines of the following: 3/24 Died while driving (started after several attempts); 3/25 Would not start. (same); 3/27 Would not start (same); 3/29 Died while driving.(same); 3/31 Would not start.(same); 4/1 Died while at stop light (same); 4/2 Died while driving (same). Sometimes it will start after trying a few times; sometimes you wait a few hours. Mechanic said there was nothing wrong with fuel pump. Could he be wrong? What do you suggest?
Answer: The fuel pump needs to be checked when the no-start condition occurs. (Obviously, if the pump is checked while the car is running it will check okay.) If the pump checks okay, then check for spark at the spark plugs.
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Question: 1989 Toyota 4-Runner 22re mileage: 174,000. My 4-Runner has started to miss/stumble when accelerating, doesn't seem to miss/stumble once you reach a constant speed, doesn't miss/skip when idling, just had it tuned up not to long ago (it should not need another one this soon) when going up hills there is a strong smell like sulfur/rotten eggs, I think it's my catalytic converter, short of replacing it is there anyway to unplug one? It also leaks oil from front cover could the clogged converter cause this oil leak? Also I have had my exhaust welded several times seems to keep getting holes in it always before the catalytic converter, could that be due to a plugged catalytic converter? What would be a reasonable cost to replace converter? Ballpark figure, can I buy a used catalytic converter from the junkyard? Is there a way for my mechanic to check for plugged catalytic converter without drilling a hole in exhaust? Probably wouldn't have to drill a hole since it already has one! Please help, my husband says it isn't the catalytic converter, could it just be a problem with fuel mixture, it is fuel injected. Jackie
Answer: It appears from what you have told us that your engine is running rich. We would bet your gas mileage is very low. You may have a bad oxygen or coolant sensor or a partially plugged catalytic converter.
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Question: 1998 Jaguar XJ8 V8 mileage: 17,000. The engine suddenly stalls with no warning. It seems to happen within 5 miles of starting the car, usually in cool weather (45-50F). The dealer has not been able to isolate the cause, but has replaced the throttle body and a relay.
Answer: If your car had 50,000 miles, we would suspect the fuel pump.
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Question: 1996 Ford/Contour V6 mileage: 80,000. I have had a recurring, but intermittent problem the last two winters. I live in a cold weather climate (MN) and often have my car parked outside overnight. I always warm my car up at least 5 to 10 minutes before driving. When decelerating at low speeds (10 to 0 or 5 to 0) a high pitched whine will come from the engine. Pressing on the accelerator will cause the whining to stop. On two occasions, I have not been able to safely press the accelerator, the whine continues, and eventually the engine hesitates and stalls. I have been able to restart when that happens, however the last time it occurred, the car would not restart after I had made a stop (ignition off) about 10 minutes later. I had to have the car jumped. This only occurs in winter, when the temperature drops to around 30 degrees. I have had two mechanics take a look at it. The last mechanic I took it two said it was the alternator and replaced it. That was last year. It occurred once or twice last year after the replacement, and is now doing it again this winter. Any ideas?
Answer: The noise that you are hearing is from the idle speed control motor. The stalling is probably your fuel pump.
