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Question: 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 mileage 80000: We just changed the alternator and jump started the car. After a couple of minutes the engine light came on, the car beeped three times and then the car shut itself off. The car can't be restarted. We jumped it a second time with the same results.
Answer: When a battery is disconnected or goes dead and then recharged, the anti-theft security system is activated causing the symptoms you described. Try locking and unlocking the car with the remote or with the key in the driver side door lock. This should reset the security system.
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Question: 2001 Chevrolet Impala 3400_mileage: 122000. My car won't crank and the radio, Onstar system, door-locks, and remote transmitter won't work and I am hearing a clicking sound at all four doors. My question to you is what could be wrong with my vehicle? The battery is brand new and all fuses are good. Also the interior lights won't come on.
Answer: If the battery cables where incorrectly hooked up when the new battery was installed, this could cause the body control module to fail resulting in the symptoms you described.
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Question: 2000 Chevrolet Impala 3400 V-6 mileage: 72,000. Recently, my ignition switch locked up. No matter what I tried, it was locked in the off position and the key would not turn. My husband managed to take the ignition switch out and has replaced it. However, it has Passlock anti-theft protection and we do not know how to code it so our new switch will work. The key goes into the new ignition switch and will turn, but it will not start it. The "security" and battery light keep blinking off and on and I was wondering if you could tell us what to do to get it reset so we can get the car started? I realize that we could just take it to the GM dealer and have a tech fix it lickety split, but we've already got $180 in the ignition switch alone and if there is a way that my husband can do it on his own, we'd rather do it that way. Thanks
Answer: Unfortunately, there is no easy fix. The only way to get the ignition switch to work is to have it reset at the GM dealer. The reason for this is obvious...it is met to be a theft deterrent.
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Question: 1995 Chevy Beretta 2.2L mileage: 120000. Ok...I give up. I have a degree in Criminal Justice...not auto mechanics. My Beretta had been having some issues with the ignition. Might have to try it 3-4-5 times before it would "catch" and start. I thought it may be the solenoid...so I replaced the starter and solenoid unit...it was under warranty. Then it wouldn't do anything...period. Nothing, no lights, dome light, buzzer on the ignition...nothing. So I asked around and was told it may be the ignition starter switch...the one you have to drop down the steering column to get too. Took it to parts store and they tested it with a volt meter and said it was bad...I thought great, finally a reprieve. I replaced it and now...it turns over like it wants to start...its getting gas...I can smell it...but absolutely no spark. I took the plug wires off and grounded them to the block with a screwdriver and no arc whatsoever. Please bring an end to this madness and frustration.
Answer: First check for a blown fuse in the fuse box, paying particular attention to the fuse for the ECM (electronic control module). If this checks out okay, scan the computer for fault codes as you may have a faulty crank and/or cam sensor.
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Question: 1990 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4 5 spd. Mileage: 115,000. My S-10 Blazer stumbled due to fuel starvation, and died along the highway in the middle of the Arizona desert last week. Fuel is no longer being delivered to the TBI (throttle body injection). Fuel pump is new but does not come on when the cars ignition is turned on. All wires going to the pump are in good order. Replaced the fuel pump relay but no help. Put a test light on the relays contacts and found one wire was hot with the ignition on. Cannot find a fused link in the engine compartment and all fuses in the passenger compartment looked OK although I found none marked fuel pump. What is wrong with my Blazer?
Answer: First, check all the fuses while under load. Next check for 12 volts to the fuel pump as you may have a faulty pump even though recently replaced. Finally, scan the computer for false codes if the first two check okay.
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Question: 1998 Chevy S-10 pick up. The Passlock anti-theft deterrent system is malfunctioning. My truck thinks I am trying to steal it. The engine will fire but after 2 seconds, the computer cuts the fuel line to prevent theft. The owner's manual says this is caused by a faulty key or some kind of contaminant in the starter itself. I've tried the manual's way of bypassing this (wait 10 minutes and retry) but, nothing is working. The dealer wants to charge me over $700 when this is all said and done. Have you guys heard about any other ways to bypass this? Matt
Answer: We suspect that you may have a broken wire inside the steering column. The anti-theft system cannot be bypassed.
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Question: 1988 Nissan Stanza wagon C20 EFI mileage: 193,000. I adjusted my valves last week. In order to remove the valve cover I had to remove a bracket at the back end of the engine. I crank the engine over to adjust valves (with both coil wires disconnected). When I went to put the bracket back on, I noticed there were two ground wires connected to one of the mounting bolts. I later found out one was a ground for my fuel pump; I still do not know what the other is for. Once I got everything back together, the car would crank but, run for only a few seconds and shut off, as soon as I retry, it does the same thing. I did find that I had a clogged fuel filter but after replacing it, the car still does the same thing. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator, it seems to be firing fine and I checked the injector wires with a Noid light. Not a whole lot in print on the Stanza. I have Chilton and Haynes repair manuals. Not very good wiring diagrams on the EFI system. Next to the dealership what are my chances? I like the old car I hate to junk it. But, I don't want to spend a lot of money to get it fix.
Answer: Double check to make sure all the ground wires are hooked back up. Also, do a compression check as the valves may be adjusted too tight.
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Question: 1994 Chevrolet Corvette LT1 350 mileage: 30k. When I start the engine it sounds as if the starter is still engaged and spinning at the same speed as the flywheel and not grinding. Then when I turn the key completely off the engine continues cranking as if I was trying to start it, but the key is completely off. Any ideas? Starter? Relay?
Answer: It appears that you probably have a bad starter and/or solenoid.
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Question: 1985 Honda Civic 4WD Wagon 1.5L mileage: 151016. Having just taken the car through an emissions inspection, I found my hydrocarbon outputs a bit too close to the limits, so I felt a tune up was in order. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, both fuel and air filters, some leaking fuel lines that I found in the process, PCV valve, and I changed the oil. Now, the car will not start. I have verified that I have spark from each of the spark plug wires, (By holding a connected spark plug against the valve cover with pliers and cranking the engine.) and the firing order is the same as when the old components were removed. (I made a diagram.) I do have fuel getting to the carburetor and all vacuum lines are connected where they should be. Compression should not be an issue, because the car ran before I did the tune up. I have checked everything that my Haynes manual has recommended me to try. The PCV valve fits into a socket on the block and a tube leads from a nipple on the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The old valve was dangling from the tube, and not fitted into the socket. I put the new one in correctly, however this should not affect the starting of the engine. I walked to a Honda Dealership and asked a mechanic if there were any other things I should check. (I do have fairly good mechanical knowledge and experience, but it's always good to ask the experts.) I have also tried replacing all the old parts that I removed, including the leaking fuel hoses. There is no way I could have installed the distributor cap or rotor 180 Degrees out of phase, as I have purposely tried to install it wrong. Ether starting spray will not work, nor will cranking with the throttle to the floor, with or without the choke propped open. I have let it sit for a few hours with the plugs out to allow any excess gas to evaporate. I am all out of ideas, as is my father, and several mechanic friends.
Answer: Three things you need for an engine to run, compression, spark at the right time, and the proper amount of fuel. Start with checking the compression and verify that the timing is right. If those two check out, trying starting it on starting fluid.
Follow-up: I found the problem shortly after e-mailing you guys. I retried all the old ignition components again and it started, must have done something wrong when I tried the old parts the first time. Anyway, I ended up replacing parts one by one, and ended up finding out that my new spark plug wires were bad. A clerk at the auto parts store had given me numerous parts for a fuel-injected model, but I had returned the distributor cap and rotor because they were visually wrong. The wires however looked the same on the outside. Inside, however they had interference suppressing resistors, which made the spark weak, and hence, no ignition. Returning the wires in exchange for the correct ones solved my problem.
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Question: 1984 Pace Arrow Motor Home Chevy 454 mileage: 150,000. Motorhome will cold start fine...will not hot start. Replaced the starter, etc. after testing showed bad. But, still did not start and made horrible grinding type noise when the key was turned to start it. Finally got it to start and immediately took it home. After sitting about 1 - 1 1/2 hours it did start but made same noise!
Answer: Without actually "seeing" your vehicle and starting it, it is difficult to diagnose the problem. We are guessing that you may have a faulty starter solenoid or possibly some stripped teeth on the flywheel. In addition, load test the battery to verify that it is in good condition.
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Question: 1989 Corvette-coupe L-98 mileage: 50,000. I have had no problems with this car since '89 until last September. The fuel pump died and I replaced it, Then it was very hard to start and would carbon up quickly and all cylinders. It was drivable if it would start but at about 80% power. Once it ran it would start again without to much trouble but after a day or two it was hard to start (10-15 min of cranking). I replaced Cap, Rotor, Coil, Plugs & wires, Timing Module, MAF; NO Change. I got no codes except #12. I replaced the ECM the car started right up no carbon, 100% power. The third time I started it (30 min total time on new ECM) it stopped dead in its tracks- NO Codes. I got it started about 15 min later back to carboning-up. Next day no start at all- No Codes. Question: Could something be wiping out the RAM in the ECM?
Answer: We would check for a plugged catalytic converter and correct fuel pressure.
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Question: 1987 Dodge Caravan 3.0 mileage: 100,000+. Where on the vehicle is the fuel pump relay cavity 25 located? At terminal 51 on single board, engine controller goes to fuel pump relay cavity 25 (see sheet 116). This information is from a Haynes manual-wiring diagram. Vehicle has no spark or fuel because auto shutdown relay isn't getting its ground on the control circuit.
Answer: We do not think the fuel pump relay is your problem. From what you have described, you probably have a bad engine controller, which is located by the battery. Also, check the ignition coil pick-up. If the computer cannot "see" the engine turning over it will not allow the fuel pump to run. A bad ignition coil could be the cause.
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Question: 1991 Chevrolet Euro 4 dr car 3.1 L mileage: 220,000. Car starts hard on cold mornings (20 F /Michigan) even if it was driven the night before ... worst when the car sits all weekend. When starting, car sounds like its only hitting on a few cylinders (smell gas at tailpipe) and will sometimes backfire through throttle body. Have used numerous water/ice removers as well as premium gas treatments. Once car starts and is revved up, it runs great! ... Very smooth, normal gas mileage, and at 100% normal power. Car starts fine the rest of the day and doesn't seem to be effected by rainy days. I have new spark plugs, fuel and air filter. The throttle body was extensively cleaned 30,000 miles ago. Guessing it's electrical, but only seems to effect starting on cold mornings or after car has sat for a couple of days.
Answer: Check the fuel pump pressure when you are experiencing the poor running conditions. You may have a malfunctioning fuel and/or a plugged fuel filter.
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Question: 1987 Dodge Colt Vista 1.5 mileage: 114K. Where do I find info on test procedures for fuel injection? Test code shows a bad speed sensor, but the sensor itself tests good. The car is not getting any fuel but has correct fuel pressure to injectors. Car will start after being pulled (about 30 mph), but will not start on its own. Lowest compression is about 65 lbs on two cylinders. Car runs great after being pulled and started. Can you tell us anything - if not, do you have suggestions where to look?
Answer: We do not think fuel injection is your problem. Check for the cause of the low cylinder compression. You do this by doing a cylinder leak down test, which will pinpoint the problem.
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Question: 1991 HYUNDAI/EXCEL 4 CYLINDER mileage: 75,000. The fuel pump in my Excel went out so it was replaced. It still won't start. There's no power to the fuel pump when the ignition switch is on, but when it is at start position there is power to the fuel pump. Are there any inline fuses to the fuel pump that could be the problem, and if so where are they located? There is no power coming from the computer to tell the electrical circuit to run the fuel pump. The electrical circuit has also been replaced.
Answer: There is a good chance that the 12-volt power to your fuel pump is working properly. It is normal for the computer to not have power to the pump when the key is on and the engine is not running. In the start position the computer signals the pump to run. Once the computer knows the engine has started, it will continue power to the fuel pump. As to why your car will not start, check for spark at the spark plugs and check for compression. Also, check the timing belt.
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Question: 1985 Plymouth Reliant 2.2 mileage: 99,000. Shut this car off one afternoon, but the next morning it would not start; it has been very reliable with no problems. It fired once, then died. I got it started, finally, but it was missing really badly. I shut it off and later tried to start it with no luck. I have done the following: checked timing (appears to be okay--explanation follows), replaced the spark control computer with a savaged unit (I had no spark at one point and traced it to that piece--now I have spark from the coil and at each of the spark plugs), replaced the pick-up coil (actually before the computer). The car cranks over and over, but doesn't fire. Before my dad and I set the timing, it was sputtering and backfiring; it appeared to be out 180 degrees according to my repair book. Could weak plugs, faulty distributor cap/rotor be my problem? Is there some other module, etc. that I should check? Is there a problem with the valves now? Compression? Your help would be appreciated!
Answer: Check the timing belt as it may have jumped a tooth. Also, do a compression check. If the cap and rotor, plug wires etc., need to be replaced, you should do so. Check the spark plugs to see if they are oil fouling when you remove them for the compression check. If they are, try a higher heat range spark plug in the fouled cylinder.
Follow-up: Thanks Bob and Ken! I have checked the timing belt to make sure it hadn't jumped a tooth. Everything is okay there. The cap seems fine, but the rotor wasn't making good contact with the shaft of the distributor. I messed around with it and now it seems okay. The sparks plugs also seem fine. Could you elaborate on the compression check? For what would I be looking? By the way, since my last question to you, I went through a series of electrical tests (with the spark control computer plugged in and unplugged at various times) as prescribed in the Haynes repair manual for this car. I have checked the distributor, pick-up assembly, rotor/distributor shaft, and the spark control computer for continuity and/or voltage. The series of tests seem to point to this spark control computer; by the way, the savaged unit that I might have mentioned previously was bad too, according to these same tests. I understand that a savage computer can be bad because of the tendency for these cars to have bad computers around 100,000 miles. My uncle had one go bad on his K-car too at about this mileage. I have priced a new spark control computer for $200 at a local Chrysler dealership; it is more expensive than the computer for the same car with EFI. I don't mind paying for the new computer because this car has been nothing by reliable if I could be more certain (almost without doubt) that the computer really, really is bad because, of course, it is a non-returnable item. At 16 years old and 100,000, the car itself is only worth about $800. You see my dilemma. If the computer is really not bad, I am stuck with the new computer and another problem. So, is there something else I could do to verify the results of these electrical tests pointing to a bad spark control computer?
Reply: The Haynes manual should explain how to do a compression check. You just get a compression gauge and follow the instructions. As for the computer, see if you can find someone (a friend) that has a car like yours and borrow the computer to test it against yours. If not, with 100,000 miles, the life expectancy of the computer, the investment would not be a bad one if you were planning to keep the car.
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Question: 1992 Ford Aerostar 3.0L. We just had the heater core replaced and all of a sudden once that was done, the van won't start. A friend seems to think the fuel pump isn't working now, as he doesn't hear anything when he turns the ignition on. We were wondering before we replace the pump is there any fuse that could have blown. If we have to replace the fuel pump any idea how much that will cost to do...Grant.
Answer: Check for 12 volts going to the fuel pump when you are trying to start the car. If there is no voltage, try resetting the fuel pump inertia switch. If there is 12 volts and there is no fuel pump pressure, then the pump has failed.
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Question: '89 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl 4.0 Liter mileage: 100,000. Will crank over, but will not start. Has no spark. Added new distributor cap and rotor, still no spark. Checked coil with an ohmmeter and seems ok (0.6 ohm between + and -. 6,500 ohms between + and anode. Infinity to core), suspected the ignition module, but it tested ok at a parts store. Ignition Module was replaced 2 years ago. Engine Crankshaft sensor was replaced 3 years ago. New plugs and plug wires 1 year ago. What do you think?
Answer: Without actually "seeing" your jeep and doing some tests, we are guessing that the crankshaft sensor has failed.
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Question: I have a 1987 Jaguar XJ6 series lll and was hoping you could help me with a problem I'm having? When I turn the key to start the engine nothing happens, the engine won't turn over. I tried cleaning the battery connections, I changed the ignition switch, checked the neutral safety switch, and it still won't turn over, the starter solenoid doesn't even click. The lights, radio, clock and all the buzzers work and the battery has 12 volts with the headlights on. If you can give me any help with this problem, it would be much appreciated.
Answer: A starter relay puts power to the starter solenoid which apparently has failed. Locate the small wire on the starter solenoid and trace it back. It will lead you to the relay.
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Question: 1989 Ford Escort LX 1.9 CFI mileage: 116000. A few days ago my brother's Escort broke the timing belt tensioner. We replaced the tensioner and the car ran fine at idle, but when you start to put a load on the engine, it dies. So, we retimed the car. We have the timing as close as we can tell to being perfect. Now the car does not even attempt to start. The engine is getting fuel, the spark plugs are firing. We've been told that this is a non-interference engine, but yesterday a mechanic told us it is an interference engine. Which is right? Is it possible that we bent a valve or are we just still that far out of time? Or, could it be something totally different?
Answer: It sounds like the timing belt could be off a notch. The best way to check for a bent valve is to do a compression check.
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Question: 1986 Ford Crown Victoria V8 5 Liter mileage: 115000. I have a question about my 1986 Ford Crown Victoria. The problem is that the car does not start in the rain. I had this checked out by a professional, and he thought it was the distributor cap and plugs/wires (to the best of my understanding). He replaced all of these and still it does not start. I was wondering if it could be anything else that could be repaired or replaced. The car is no longer worth much, but it is a good car and I would like to get it running again. The cheaper the solution the better.
Answer: When your car will not start here are some things to have checked: 1. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 2. Check for fuel pressure, 3. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.
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Question: '89 Acura/Integra mileage: 111,000. '89 Integra had a dead battery which we had replaced. Now the aftermarket alarm system will not disengage and we cannot start the car. Can you help?
Answer: In order to start your car, you will have to activate the alarm system and then shut it off. If you cannot do that, unhook all the wires from the aftermarket alarm system from the original factory wiring.
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Question: 1992 Mazda/MPV-4WD 3L-V6 mileage: 110,000. During the spring/summer/fall, when my van is warmed up to normal operating temp, if I shut it off and let it cool down part way, it doesn't want to start. It acts like it is being choked. If it cools completely, or if it is still at full temperature, it starts fine, but when it has had 20-30 minutes to cool, it acts this way. It will run Very rough, when it does finally start for about 30 seconds to a minute. Any thoughts?
Answer: An internal fuel leak, possibly a fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator, could be causing your problem.
Question: 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 mileage 80000: We just changed the alternator and jump started the car. After a couple of minutes the engine light came on, the car beeped three times and then the car shut itself off. The car can't be restarted. We jumped it a second time with the same results.
Answer: When a battery is disconnected or goes dead and then recharged, the anti-theft security system is activated causing the symptoms you described. Try locking and unlocking the car with the remote or with the key in the driver side door lock. This should reset the security system.
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Question: 2001 Chevrolet Impala 3400_mileage: 122000. My car won't crank and the radio, Onstar system, door-locks, and remote transmitter won't work and I am hearing a clicking sound at all four doors. My question to you is what could be wrong with my vehicle? The battery is brand new and all fuses are good. Also the interior lights won't come on.
Answer: If the battery cables where incorrectly hooked up when the new battery was installed, this could cause the body control module to fail resulting in the symptoms you described.
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Question: 2000 Chevrolet Impala 3400 V-6 mileage: 72,000. Recently, my ignition switch locked up. No matter what I tried, it was locked in the off position and the key would not turn. My husband managed to take the ignition switch out and has replaced it. However, it has Passlock anti-theft protection and we do not know how to code it so our new switch will work. The key goes into the new ignition switch and will turn, but it will not start it. The "security" and battery light keep blinking off and on and I was wondering if you could tell us what to do to get it reset so we can get the car started? I realize that we could just take it to the GM dealer and have a tech fix it lickety split, but we've already got $180 in the ignition switch alone and if there is a way that my husband can do it on his own, we'd rather do it that way. Thanks
Answer: Unfortunately, there is no easy fix. The only way to get the ignition switch to work is to have it reset at the GM dealer. The reason for this is obvious...it is met to be a theft deterrent.
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Question: 1995 Chevy Beretta 2.2L mileage: 120000. Ok...I give up. I have a degree in Criminal Justice...not auto mechanics. My Beretta had been having some issues with the ignition. Might have to try it 3-4-5 times before it would "catch" and start. I thought it may be the solenoid...so I replaced the starter and solenoid unit...it was under warranty. Then it wouldn't do anything...period. Nothing, no lights, dome light, buzzer on the ignition...nothing. So I asked around and was told it may be the ignition starter switch...the one you have to drop down the steering column to get too. Took it to parts store and they tested it with a volt meter and said it was bad...I thought great, finally a reprieve. I replaced it and now...it turns over like it wants to start...its getting gas...I can smell it...but absolutely no spark. I took the plug wires off and grounded them to the block with a screwdriver and no arc whatsoever. Please bring an end to this madness and frustration.
Answer: First check for a blown fuse in the fuse box, paying particular attention to the fuse for the ECM (electronic control module). If this checks out okay, scan the computer for fault codes as you may have a faulty crank and/or cam sensor.
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Question: 1990 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4 5 spd. Mileage: 115,000. My S-10 Blazer stumbled due to fuel starvation, and died along the highway in the middle of the Arizona desert last week. Fuel is no longer being delivered to the TBI (throttle body injection). Fuel pump is new but does not come on when the cars ignition is turned on. All wires going to the pump are in good order. Replaced the fuel pump relay but no help. Put a test light on the relays contacts and found one wire was hot with the ignition on. Cannot find a fused link in the engine compartment and all fuses in the passenger compartment looked OK although I found none marked fuel pump. What is wrong with my Blazer?
Answer: First, check all the fuses while under load. Next check for 12 volts to the fuel pump as you may have a faulty pump even though recently replaced. Finally, scan the computer for false codes if the first two check okay.
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Question: 1998 Chevy S-10 pick up. The Passlock anti-theft deterrent system is malfunctioning. My truck thinks I am trying to steal it. The engine will fire but after 2 seconds, the computer cuts the fuel line to prevent theft. The owner's manual says this is caused by a faulty key or some kind of contaminant in the starter itself. I've tried the manual's way of bypassing this (wait 10 minutes and retry) but, nothing is working. The dealer wants to charge me over $700 when this is all said and done. Have you guys heard about any other ways to bypass this? Matt
Answer: We suspect that you may have a broken wire inside the steering column. The anti-theft system cannot be bypassed.
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Question: 1988 Nissan Stanza wagon C20 EFI mileage: 193,000. I adjusted my valves last week. In order to remove the valve cover I had to remove a bracket at the back end of the engine. I crank the engine over to adjust valves (with both coil wires disconnected). When I went to put the bracket back on, I noticed there were two ground wires connected to one of the mounting bolts. I later found out one was a ground for my fuel pump; I still do not know what the other is for. Once I got everything back together, the car would crank but, run for only a few seconds and shut off, as soon as I retry, it does the same thing. I did find that I had a clogged fuel filter but after replacing it, the car still does the same thing. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator, it seems to be firing fine and I checked the injector wires with a Noid light. Not a whole lot in print on the Stanza. I have Chilton and Haynes repair manuals. Not very good wiring diagrams on the EFI system. Next to the dealership what are my chances? I like the old car I hate to junk it. But, I don't want to spend a lot of money to get it fix.
Answer: Double check to make sure all the ground wires are hooked back up. Also, do a compression check as the valves may be adjusted too tight.
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Question: 1994 Chevrolet Corvette LT1 350 mileage: 30k. When I start the engine it sounds as if the starter is still engaged and spinning at the same speed as the flywheel and not grinding. Then when I turn the key completely off the engine continues cranking as if I was trying to start it, but the key is completely off. Any ideas? Starter? Relay?
Answer: It appears that you probably have a bad starter and/or solenoid.
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Question: 1985 Honda Civic 4WD Wagon 1.5L mileage: 151016. Having just taken the car through an emissions inspection, I found my hydrocarbon outputs a bit too close to the limits, so I felt a tune up was in order. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, both fuel and air filters, some leaking fuel lines that I found in the process, PCV valve, and I changed the oil. Now, the car will not start. I have verified that I have spark from each of the spark plug wires, (By holding a connected spark plug against the valve cover with pliers and cranking the engine.) and the firing order is the same as when the old components were removed. (I made a diagram.) I do have fuel getting to the carburetor and all vacuum lines are connected where they should be. Compression should not be an issue, because the car ran before I did the tune up. I have checked everything that my Haynes manual has recommended me to try. The PCV valve fits into a socket on the block and a tube leads from a nipple on the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The old valve was dangling from the tube, and not fitted into the socket. I put the new one in correctly, however this should not affect the starting of the engine. I walked to a Honda Dealership and asked a mechanic if there were any other things I should check. (I do have fairly good mechanical knowledge and experience, but it's always good to ask the experts.) I have also tried replacing all the old parts that I removed, including the leaking fuel hoses. There is no way I could have installed the distributor cap or rotor 180 Degrees out of phase, as I have purposely tried to install it wrong. Ether starting spray will not work, nor will cranking with the throttle to the floor, with or without the choke propped open. I have let it sit for a few hours with the plugs out to allow any excess gas to evaporate. I am all out of ideas, as is my father, and several mechanic friends.
Answer: Three things you need for an engine to run, compression, spark at the right time, and the proper amount of fuel. Start with checking the compression and verify that the timing is right. If those two check out, trying starting it on starting fluid.
Follow-up: I found the problem shortly after e-mailing you guys. I retried all the old ignition components again and it started, must have done something wrong when I tried the old parts the first time. Anyway, I ended up replacing parts one by one, and ended up finding out that my new spark plug wires were bad. A clerk at the auto parts store had given me numerous parts for a fuel-injected model, but I had returned the distributor cap and rotor because they were visually wrong. The wires however looked the same on the outside. Inside, however they had interference suppressing resistors, which made the spark weak, and hence, no ignition. Returning the wires in exchange for the correct ones solved my problem.
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Question: 1984 Pace Arrow Motor Home Chevy 454 mileage: 150,000. Motorhome will cold start fine...will not hot start. Replaced the starter, etc. after testing showed bad. But, still did not start and made horrible grinding type noise when the key was turned to start it. Finally got it to start and immediately took it home. After sitting about 1 - 1 1/2 hours it did start but made same noise!
Answer: Without actually "seeing" your vehicle and starting it, it is difficult to diagnose the problem. We are guessing that you may have a faulty starter solenoid or possibly some stripped teeth on the flywheel. In addition, load test the battery to verify that it is in good condition.
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Question: 1989 Corvette-coupe L-98 mileage: 50,000. I have had no problems with this car since '89 until last September. The fuel pump died and I replaced it, Then it was very hard to start and would carbon up quickly and all cylinders. It was drivable if it would start but at about 80% power. Once it ran it would start again without to much trouble but after a day or two it was hard to start (10-15 min of cranking). I replaced Cap, Rotor, Coil, Plugs & wires, Timing Module, MAF; NO Change. I got no codes except #12. I replaced the ECM the car started right up no carbon, 100% power. The third time I started it (30 min total time on new ECM) it stopped dead in its tracks- NO Codes. I got it started about 15 min later back to carboning-up. Next day no start at all- No Codes. Question: Could something be wiping out the RAM in the ECM?
Answer: We would check for a plugged catalytic converter and correct fuel pressure.
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Question: 1987 Dodge Caravan 3.0 mileage: 100,000+. Where on the vehicle is the fuel pump relay cavity 25 located? At terminal 51 on single board, engine controller goes to fuel pump relay cavity 25 (see sheet 116). This information is from a Haynes manual-wiring diagram. Vehicle has no spark or fuel because auto shutdown relay isn't getting its ground on the control circuit.
Answer: We do not think the fuel pump relay is your problem. From what you have described, you probably have a bad engine controller, which is located by the battery. Also, check the ignition coil pick-up. If the computer cannot "see" the engine turning over it will not allow the fuel pump to run. A bad ignition coil could be the cause.
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Question: 1991 Chevrolet Euro 4 dr car 3.1 L mileage: 220,000. Car starts hard on cold mornings (20 F /Michigan) even if it was driven the night before ... worst when the car sits all weekend. When starting, car sounds like its only hitting on a few cylinders (smell gas at tailpipe) and will sometimes backfire through throttle body. Have used numerous water/ice removers as well as premium gas treatments. Once car starts and is revved up, it runs great! ... Very smooth, normal gas mileage, and at 100% normal power. Car starts fine the rest of the day and doesn't seem to be effected by rainy days. I have new spark plugs, fuel and air filter. The throttle body was extensively cleaned 30,000 miles ago. Guessing it's electrical, but only seems to effect starting on cold mornings or after car has sat for a couple of days.
Answer: Check the fuel pump pressure when you are experiencing the poor running conditions. You may have a malfunctioning fuel and/or a plugged fuel filter.
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Question: 1987 Dodge Colt Vista 1.5 mileage: 114K. Where do I find info on test procedures for fuel injection? Test code shows a bad speed sensor, but the sensor itself tests good. The car is not getting any fuel but has correct fuel pressure to injectors. Car will start after being pulled (about 30 mph), but will not start on its own. Lowest compression is about 65 lbs on two cylinders. Car runs great after being pulled and started. Can you tell us anything - if not, do you have suggestions where to look?
Answer: We do not think fuel injection is your problem. Check for the cause of the low cylinder compression. You do this by doing a cylinder leak down test, which will pinpoint the problem.
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Question: 1991 HYUNDAI/EXCEL 4 CYLINDER mileage: 75,000. The fuel pump in my Excel went out so it was replaced. It still won't start. There's no power to the fuel pump when the ignition switch is on, but when it is at start position there is power to the fuel pump. Are there any inline fuses to the fuel pump that could be the problem, and if so where are they located? There is no power coming from the computer to tell the electrical circuit to run the fuel pump. The electrical circuit has also been replaced.
Answer: There is a good chance that the 12-volt power to your fuel pump is working properly. It is normal for the computer to not have power to the pump when the key is on and the engine is not running. In the start position the computer signals the pump to run. Once the computer knows the engine has started, it will continue power to the fuel pump. As to why your car will not start, check for spark at the spark plugs and check for compression. Also, check the timing belt.
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Question: 1985 Plymouth Reliant 2.2 mileage: 99,000. Shut this car off one afternoon, but the next morning it would not start; it has been very reliable with no problems. It fired once, then died. I got it started, finally, but it was missing really badly. I shut it off and later tried to start it with no luck. I have done the following: checked timing (appears to be okay--explanation follows), replaced the spark control computer with a savaged unit (I had no spark at one point and traced it to that piece--now I have spark from the coil and at each of the spark plugs), replaced the pick-up coil (actually before the computer). The car cranks over and over, but doesn't fire. Before my dad and I set the timing, it was sputtering and backfiring; it appeared to be out 180 degrees according to my repair book. Could weak plugs, faulty distributor cap/rotor be my problem? Is there some other module, etc. that I should check? Is there a problem with the valves now? Compression? Your help would be appreciated!
Answer: Check the timing belt as it may have jumped a tooth. Also, do a compression check. If the cap and rotor, plug wires etc., need to be replaced, you should do so. Check the spark plugs to see if they are oil fouling when you remove them for the compression check. If they are, try a higher heat range spark plug in the fouled cylinder.
Follow-up: Thanks Bob and Ken! I have checked the timing belt to make sure it hadn't jumped a tooth. Everything is okay there. The cap seems fine, but the rotor wasn't making good contact with the shaft of the distributor. I messed around with it and now it seems okay. The sparks plugs also seem fine. Could you elaborate on the compression check? For what would I be looking? By the way, since my last question to you, I went through a series of electrical tests (with the spark control computer plugged in and unplugged at various times) as prescribed in the Haynes repair manual for this car. I have checked the distributor, pick-up assembly, rotor/distributor shaft, and the spark control computer for continuity and/or voltage. The series of tests seem to point to this spark control computer; by the way, the savaged unit that I might have mentioned previously was bad too, according to these same tests. I understand that a savage computer can be bad because of the tendency for these cars to have bad computers around 100,000 miles. My uncle had one go bad on his K-car too at about this mileage. I have priced a new spark control computer for $200 at a local Chrysler dealership; it is more expensive than the computer for the same car with EFI. I don't mind paying for the new computer because this car has been nothing by reliable if I could be more certain (almost without doubt) that the computer really, really is bad because, of course, it is a non-returnable item. At 16 years old and 100,000, the car itself is only worth about $800. You see my dilemma. If the computer is really not bad, I am stuck with the new computer and another problem. So, is there something else I could do to verify the results of these electrical tests pointing to a bad spark control computer?
Reply: The Haynes manual should explain how to do a compression check. You just get a compression gauge and follow the instructions. As for the computer, see if you can find someone (a friend) that has a car like yours and borrow the computer to test it against yours. If not, with 100,000 miles, the life expectancy of the computer, the investment would not be a bad one if you were planning to keep the car.
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Question: 1992 Ford Aerostar 3.0L. We just had the heater core replaced and all of a sudden once that was done, the van won't start. A friend seems to think the fuel pump isn't working now, as he doesn't hear anything when he turns the ignition on. We were wondering before we replace the pump is there any fuse that could have blown. If we have to replace the fuel pump any idea how much that will cost to do...Grant.
Answer: Check for 12 volts going to the fuel pump when you are trying to start the car. If there is no voltage, try resetting the fuel pump inertia switch. If there is 12 volts and there is no fuel pump pressure, then the pump has failed.
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Question: '89 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl 4.0 Liter mileage: 100,000. Will crank over, but will not start. Has no spark. Added new distributor cap and rotor, still no spark. Checked coil with an ohmmeter and seems ok (0.6 ohm between + and -. 6,500 ohms between + and anode. Infinity to core), suspected the ignition module, but it tested ok at a parts store. Ignition Module was replaced 2 years ago. Engine Crankshaft sensor was replaced 3 years ago. New plugs and plug wires 1 year ago. What do you think?
Answer: Without actually "seeing" your jeep and doing some tests, we are guessing that the crankshaft sensor has failed.
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Question: I have a 1987 Jaguar XJ6 series lll and was hoping you could help me with a problem I'm having? When I turn the key to start the engine nothing happens, the engine won't turn over. I tried cleaning the battery connections, I changed the ignition switch, checked the neutral safety switch, and it still won't turn over, the starter solenoid doesn't even click. The lights, radio, clock and all the buzzers work and the battery has 12 volts with the headlights on. If you can give me any help with this problem, it would be much appreciated.
Answer: A starter relay puts power to the starter solenoid which apparently has failed. Locate the small wire on the starter solenoid and trace it back. It will lead you to the relay.
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Question: 1989 Ford Escort LX 1.9 CFI mileage: 116000. A few days ago my brother's Escort broke the timing belt tensioner. We replaced the tensioner and the car ran fine at idle, but when you start to put a load on the engine, it dies. So, we retimed the car. We have the timing as close as we can tell to being perfect. Now the car does not even attempt to start. The engine is getting fuel, the spark plugs are firing. We've been told that this is a non-interference engine, but yesterday a mechanic told us it is an interference engine. Which is right? Is it possible that we bent a valve or are we just still that far out of time? Or, could it be something totally different?
Answer: It sounds like the timing belt could be off a notch. The best way to check for a bent valve is to do a compression check.
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Question: 1986 Ford Crown Victoria V8 5 Liter mileage: 115000. I have a question about my 1986 Ford Crown Victoria. The problem is that the car does not start in the rain. I had this checked out by a professional, and he thought it was the distributor cap and plugs/wires (to the best of my understanding). He replaced all of these and still it does not start. I was wondering if it could be anything else that could be repaired or replaced. The car is no longer worth much, but it is a good car and I would like to get it running again. The cheaper the solution the better.
Answer: When your car will not start here are some things to have checked: 1. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 2. Check for fuel pressure, 3. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.
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Question: '89 Acura/Integra mileage: 111,000. '89 Integra had a dead battery which we had replaced. Now the aftermarket alarm system will not disengage and we cannot start the car. Can you help?
Answer: In order to start your car, you will have to activate the alarm system and then shut it off. If you cannot do that, unhook all the wires from the aftermarket alarm system from the original factory wiring.
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Question: 1992 Mazda/MPV-4WD 3L-V6 mileage: 110,000. During the spring/summer/fall, when my van is warmed up to normal operating temp, if I shut it off and let it cool down part way, it doesn't want to start. It acts like it is being choked. If it cools completely, or if it is still at full temperature, it starts fine, but when it has had 20-30 minutes to cool, it acts this way. It will run Very rough, when it does finally start for about 30 seconds to a minute. Any thoughts?
Answer: An internal fuel leak, possibly a fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator, could be causing your problem.
