烧机油

[cgi]

俺的93年的车排气管冒黑烟，不是很厉害，今年排气测试没通过，也不想修了，开到哪算哪，虽然3个月我还是到老黑那里换机油，不过这之间还要加点机油。

今天高速上堵车，换线之后，后面一车的鬼子老哥们，赶上来向我嚷嚷: You are burning engine oil.挺不好意思的。

有什么办法少烧点机油?

谢谢

 

[liveonyork]

去CANADIANTIRE买ENGINE TREATMENT试试看，不过效果不是很明显

 

[1784]

oil stablizer ...

 

[liveonyork]

最初由 1784 发布
oil stablizer ...

It is just thicker oil not any more. It does not work on oil burning engines at all. I have tried it on 93 honda civic oil burning crap, but nothing comes out. CD2 may have some effect. Slick 50 works, because it coats everything inside the engine, but only work for very short period of time.

 

[Timothy's]

You may try single-grade conventional motor oils SAE 30 SAE 40. You can buy them at CT and bring to YMH for change. There are thicker. In summer there are ok. In winter it is litter difficult to start the car, you may need to warm it up before driving.

 

[Timothy's]

I find this one. It may help you.

"First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won't stop leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of "Bearing Seal Additive" after Step #2. Chances are it will stop or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.) Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-

1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You've probably been using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier, single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it'll turn over fast.

2. Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning, which replaces one quart of the oil you would normally use during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than 5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)

3. Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening it up to expressway speeds. That's all there is to it!

Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the "usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why, as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-

The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is, standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the seal formation.

Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.

The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn't as hard as steel. So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why bother changing a winning combination"

 

[liveonyork]

In my personal experience, CD 2 has nothing to do with engine smoke. It can reduce some kind of emission, but for oil burning, it is not very effective.
Try "Slick 50" it coats everything inside the engine, and it does some help to slow the oil burning process.

最初由 Timothy's 发布
I find this one. It may help you.

"First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won't stop leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of "Bearing Seal Additive" after Step #2. Chances are it will stop or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.) Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-

1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You've probably been using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier, single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it'll turn over fast.

2. Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning, which replaces one quart of the oil you would normally use during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than 5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)

3. Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening it up to expressway speeds. That's all there is to it!

Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the "usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why, as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-

The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is, standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the seal formation.

Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.

The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn't as hard as steel. So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why bother changing a winning combination"