我想种扁叶的松树作fence
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You can start from the local garden centers
Hedges for Canadian gardens
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SELECTION OF A HEDGE
The first decision to be made is whether an evergreen or deciduous hedge is preferable. Evergreen hedges stay green all winter and are therefore of value as a contrast to white snow. Unfortunately, they are more easily broken down by the weight of ice and snow than deciduous hedges, and they cannot be used satisfactorily along a path or drive that is plowed in winter, unless they are planted well back from it.
The height of the hedge at maturity is the next point to consider. A hedge that is planted to provide privacy must grow to at least 150-200 cm. A large garden needs a taller hedge than a small lot and can stand a hedge of coarse texture, that is, one with large leaves and heavy twigs. Large shiny leaves can be seen in more detail than small, dull ones and so appear nearer at hand. Bright green, golden, or grayish foliage makes a stronger impression than foliage that is a mid-green and so seems closer. Hedges with large, shiny, bright leaves surrounding a large area tend to make the area look smaller, while a hedge of fine texture and dull green foliage tends to make an area look larger.
Since the purpose of a tall or medium hedge is to give privacy or to act as a background, it should be dark or mid-green in color. A large mass of a bright color would make it overpowering. Low hedges used to give emphasis to the design of a formal garden may be of brighter shades of green, gold, gray, or purple.
In choosing a hedge, environment should be considered also. The amount of sun or shade, whether the site is dry or moist, whether the soil is clay or sand, and the number of dogs or children in the neighborhood will all influence the final selection. White pine makes a beautiful hedge on dry sandy soil but will not grow on wet clay, where larch or spruce would succeed. White pine is subject to a fungus disease called blister rust, whereas red pine is not. In shade, lilac will be spindly and covered with mildew, while in the same spot wayfaring tree would be very satisfactory. Siberian elm will not stand a low damp site, where a willow hedge would be excellent. Hawthorn provides fine thorny protection against dogs or children, but may tear clothes and cause trouble if planted near a public path. It is also subject to the attacks of insects and disease common to apples and so should not be used in an orchard district unless the owner is prepared to spray regularly. The nurseryman should be consulted as to the best plants to use for different conditions.
Rate of growth is also a factor. Good hedges can be grown only with patience and regular clipping, as will be described under "Trimming." Fast-growing plants, such as willows and Siberian elm, which will make a 150 cm hedge in 3 years if properly handled, require such frequent trimming that their rapidity of growth is a disadvantage in the long run. Plants that grow more slowly are much less trouble and will remain in good condition over a longer span of years.
PLANTING
Deciduous hedges should be planted early in the spring, before the leaf buds burst, or in October after the leaves have fallen. At Ottawa and in more northern districts higher mortality is experienced in fall than in spring planting. Evergreens may be planted either in early May or September, while the cedar, or arborvitae, may be moved at almost any time except midsummer if it is kept well watered.
In general, small plants should be used in preference to large ones. Deciduous plants 2 years old grown from seed, or cuttings that have been cut back at the end of the first season's growth to make them branch out near the ground, are excellent. Four-year-old evergreen seedlings that have not been cut back, or perhaps just lightly trimmed at the tips, are the best size to use. Larger plants may be used, provided they are bushy to the ground. Tall, spindly plants should never be used unless one is prepared to cut them down almost to ground level. This cannot be done with evergreens.
If the planting is done as a common project between two neighbors, it is best to have a hedge on the property line; if it is the property of only one owner it should be placed 75-100 cm inside the line so that it will not cause trouble. Most municipalities have by-laws governing planting on the front of a lot and it is wise to acquaint oneself with these before planting.
When the location has been decided upon, selection of planting material made, and arrangements completed for securing the plants, the soil should be prepared properly before planting. A trench 40-50 cm deep, and 50-60 cm wide, should be dug. Care should be taken to place the good topsoil on one side and the poorer subsoil on the other. A 5-10 cm layer of thoroughly rotted barnyard manure or leaf mold should be placed in the bottom of the trench and turned into the subsoil with a digging fork. This should be covered with 5-10 cm of the good topsoil before actual planting commences. Since it is important to have a hedge straight, a line should be strung about 15 cm to one side of where the actual line of the hedge will be.
Spacing
Single-row planting is much more satisfactory than the staggered double row sometimes advocated. The double row takes many more plants and more space, is harder to trim and, as there is more competition between roots, mortality is higher and replacement more difficult.
The planting distance will vary with the kind of plant and the ultimate height to which the hedge is to grow. Planting 50 cm apart has proved satisfactory for hedges that are to grow 100-200 cm in height. For low hedges, or where plants are of erect habit of growth, closer planting is necessary. Very upright plants such as pyramidal privet should be placed 15-20 cm apart. Where taller hedges are desired, particularly evergreens for screens or windbreaks, the planting distance should be increased to 75-100 cm.
Setting the plants
Plants should be set a little deeper than they grew formerly. In order to space the plants evenly, a light stick cut to the proper length should be placed between the plants as each is set in place. Each plant should be placed the same distance from the line so that the hedge will be straight. In planting, the roots of the plants should be spread out in a natural position and covered with topsoil. The plant should be gently shaken up and down so that the loose earth will work down around the roots before the soil is packed firm with the fingers or by tramping.
Care must be taken to prevent the fine roots from drying out during planting operations. It is wise to carry the plants in a pail with the roots covered with water or damp sphagnum moss, or to wrap them in a wet sack, placing one at a time in the trench as needed, rather than spreading them along the trench to save time. When the whole row has been planted, with the roots covered with topsoil and packed firmly, a hose should be used to soak the ground thoroughly. After the water has soaked away, the remainder of the earth should be filled in, leaving a ridge on each side to facilitate future watering.
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
Hedges for Canadian gardens
----------------------------------------------------------------------
SELECTION OF A HEDGE
The first decision to be made is whether an evergreen or deciduous hedge is preferable. Evergreen hedges stay green all winter and are therefore of value as a contrast to white snow. Unfortunately, they are more easily broken down by the weight of ice and snow than deciduous hedges, and they cannot be used satisfactorily along a path or drive that is plowed in winter, unless they are planted well back from it.
The height of the hedge at maturity is the next point to consider. A hedge that is planted to provide privacy must grow to at least 150-200 cm. A large garden needs a taller hedge than a small lot and can stand a hedge of coarse texture, that is, one with large leaves and heavy twigs. Large shiny leaves can be seen in more detail than small, dull ones and so appear nearer at hand. Bright green, golden, or grayish foliage makes a stronger impression than foliage that is a mid-green and so seems closer. Hedges with large, shiny, bright leaves surrounding a large area tend to make the area look smaller, while a hedge of fine texture and dull green foliage tends to make an area look larger.
Since the purpose of a tall or medium hedge is to give privacy or to act as a background, it should be dark or mid-green in color. A large mass of a bright color would make it overpowering. Low hedges used to give emphasis to the design of a formal garden may be of brighter shades of green, gold, gray, or purple.
In choosing a hedge, environment should be considered also. The amount of sun or shade, whether the site is dry or moist, whether the soil is clay or sand, and the number of dogs or children in the neighborhood will all influence the final selection. White pine makes a beautiful hedge on dry sandy soil but will not grow on wet clay, where larch or spruce would succeed. White pine is subject to a fungus disease called blister rust, whereas red pine is not. In shade, lilac will be spindly and covered with mildew, while in the same spot wayfaring tree would be very satisfactory. Siberian elm will not stand a low damp site, where a willow hedge would be excellent. Hawthorn provides fine thorny protection against dogs or children, but may tear clothes and cause trouble if planted near a public path. It is also subject to the attacks of insects and disease common to apples and so should not be used in an orchard district unless the owner is prepared to spray regularly. The nurseryman should be consulted as to the best plants to use for different conditions.
Rate of growth is also a factor. Good hedges can be grown only with patience and regular clipping, as will be described under "Trimming." Fast-growing plants, such as willows and Siberian elm, which will make a 150 cm hedge in 3 years if properly handled, require such frequent trimming that their rapidity of growth is a disadvantage in the long run. Plants that grow more slowly are much less trouble and will remain in good condition over a longer span of years.
PLANTING
Deciduous hedges should be planted early in the spring, before the leaf buds burst, or in October after the leaves have fallen. At Ottawa and in more northern districts higher mortality is experienced in fall than in spring planting. Evergreens may be planted either in early May or September, while the cedar, or arborvitae, may be moved at almost any time except midsummer if it is kept well watered.
In general, small plants should be used in preference to large ones. Deciduous plants 2 years old grown from seed, or cuttings that have been cut back at the end of the first season's growth to make them branch out near the ground, are excellent. Four-year-old evergreen seedlings that have not been cut back, or perhaps just lightly trimmed at the tips, are the best size to use. Larger plants may be used, provided they are bushy to the ground. Tall, spindly plants should never be used unless one is prepared to cut them down almost to ground level. This cannot be done with evergreens.
If the planting is done as a common project between two neighbors, it is best to have a hedge on the property line; if it is the property of only one owner it should be placed 75-100 cm inside the line so that it will not cause trouble. Most municipalities have by-laws governing planting on the front of a lot and it is wise to acquaint oneself with these before planting.
When the location has been decided upon, selection of planting material made, and arrangements completed for securing the plants, the soil should be prepared properly before planting. A trench 40-50 cm deep, and 50-60 cm wide, should be dug. Care should be taken to place the good topsoil on one side and the poorer subsoil on the other. A 5-10 cm layer of thoroughly rotted barnyard manure or leaf mold should be placed in the bottom of the trench and turned into the subsoil with a digging fork. This should be covered with 5-10 cm of the good topsoil before actual planting commences. Since it is important to have a hedge straight, a line should be strung about 15 cm to one side of where the actual line of the hedge will be.
Spacing
Single-row planting is much more satisfactory than the staggered double row sometimes advocated. The double row takes many more plants and more space, is harder to trim and, as there is more competition between roots, mortality is higher and replacement more difficult.
The planting distance will vary with the kind of plant and the ultimate height to which the hedge is to grow. Planting 50 cm apart has proved satisfactory for hedges that are to grow 100-200 cm in height. For low hedges, or where plants are of erect habit of growth, closer planting is necessary. Very upright plants such as pyramidal privet should be placed 15-20 cm apart. Where taller hedges are desired, particularly evergreens for screens or windbreaks, the planting distance should be increased to 75-100 cm.
Setting the plants
Plants should be set a little deeper than they grew formerly. In order to space the plants evenly, a light stick cut to the proper length should be placed between the plants as each is set in place. Each plant should be placed the same distance from the line so that the hedge will be straight. In planting, the roots of the plants should be spread out in a natural position and covered with topsoil. The plant should be gently shaken up and down so that the loose earth will work down around the roots before the soil is packed firm with the fingers or by tramping.
Care must be taken to prevent the fine roots from drying out during planting operations. It is wise to carry the plants in a pail with the roots covered with water or damp sphagnum moss, or to wrap them in a wet sack, placing one at a time in the trench as needed, rather than spreading them along the trench to save time. When the whole row has been planted, with the roots covered with topsoil and packed firmly, a hose should be used to soak the ground thoroughly. After the water has soaked away, the remainder of the earth should be filled in, leaving a ridge on each side to facilitate future watering.
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
