今天全是技术贴。如何修复休眠中的锂电池。
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Battery Safety 101: Anatomy - PTC vs PCB vs CIDFebruary 18 2015, 9 Comments
The different kinds of protection inside and outside your 18650 batteries.
Figure 1. A close-up look at the anatomy of an 18650. Take a look at the different protection devices. By NASA.
Internal protective devices:
PTC (Pressure, Temperature, Current) Switch.
Fuses and tabs that connect batteries joined together are designed to break the circuit under high voltage.
Figure 2. External short circuiting under Vacuum conditions. By NASA.
Bimetallic disconnects
Figure 3. How a bimetallic disconnect on 18650 batteries work from HVAC.
Temperature changes will let the metals expand or contract. When bimetallic blade is 'closed' or 'down' it provides contact and forms a circuit. Because the current provides heat, the metal begins to expand. This prevents the temperature from ever getting too hot or too cold.
External protective devices:
Diodes
You've probably heard of LEDs (light emitting diodes), but what is a diode? It's like a valve, and only let's current flow one way. For a better understanding, check out this video:
Vents
Figure 4. A close-up of an 18650 PCB protection board
This board has the following features:
Figure 5. The anatomy of a protected 18650 battery by Lygte Info
Does your battery have protection circuitry?
18650 batteries sold in the US are required to have CID and PTC protection. However most cells for vaporizers are sold without PCB's. This is because the PCB will limit the amp discharge of your battery to 6A, when vaporizers need 10A - 30A.
To know whether your battery has PCB protection, there are a few signs:
Tesla uses 18650 batteries but has modified them. They have taken out the PTC and CID protection circuitry and made them truly bare-bones. Instead of relying on these protection devices, TESLA has made their own out of a type of foam that floods the battery module and prevents fire.
Comments
Dan Cronin on August 14 2019 at 01:14AM
Does anyone manufacture 3.2V prismatic cells with similar internal protective devices? I’ve been unable to find out if these even exist.
Ray on June 01 2019 at 05:43AM
I was wanting to know if you could possibly tell me what is the largest mAh rechargeable battery I can use in the Protac HPL flashlight? It comes with the 74175 Streamlight rechargeable battery, but I was hoping to go with a better battery which would allow me to go longer without recharging. I appreciate any assistance you might be able to lend and I look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks,
Ray
Conan on June 28 2018 at 12:32PM
Tesla uses the thin Aluminum wires running from cell to bus bar as fuses, this is e primary defense against shorts etc. NOT the fire retardant foam/adhesive that separates cells.
Matthew Najmon on January 18 2018 at 09:23PM
“Fuses and tabs that connect batteries joined together are designed to break the circuit under high voltage.”
Fuses are current-sensitive devices, not voltage-sensitive.
Davide Andrea on July 06 2017 at 12:18PM
Please let me point out that what you have there is a “cell” not a “battery”. “Battery” means “collection”, as in, a collection of cells, electronics, case, connector… You may want to edit this page, and replace “battery” with “cell” whenever appropriate. Thanks. Davide
Cristian Teodorescu on April 02 2017 at 07:24AM
I want information protection cell, battery modules and TESLA. Better information protection 18650 cells are obtained from http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/battery protection UK.html
Renard DellaFave on October 20 2016 at 04:42PM
PTC means Positive Temperature Coefficient, not Pressure Temperature Current. They can trip from heat instead of over-current but too much pressure (on them, like over crimping, not battery gas pressure) can make them not trip.
Kohn — LiIon batteries do not need to be “broken in”. They’re as good as they’ll ever be on their 1st cycle.
There is a “forming” process to establish the anode SEI layer but that must be done in the factory and is not something a home charger can do. That layer gets thicker with every charge and degrades performance.
Kohn on August 07 2016 at 11:31AM
I bought a femixpd35 tax 1000 lumen flashlight, along with the matching recharger. What is the best way to break in the new battery?
Alan on June 23 2016 at 04:16PM
Very interesting article. Is there a source for the last bit? the tesla part. I’d like to learn more on that.
The different kinds of protection inside and outside your 18650 batteries.
Figure 1. A close-up look at the anatomy of an 18650. Take a look at the different protection devices. By NASA.
Internal protective devices:
PTC (Pressure, Temperature, Current) Switch.
- Built-in to almost all 18650's
- Inhibits high current surges
- Protects against high-pressure, over temperature
- Resets and does not permanently disable the battery when triggered. However it's best not to trip them often as it irreversibly increases their electrical resistance by up to a factor of two and makes them more likely to have catastrophic failure.
- May not work when module included multi-cell series and/or parallel configurations
- Built-in to almost all 18650's
- Not visible by just looking at your battery
- Collocated (placed side by side) with the PTC
- Is a pressure valve, which will disable the cell permanently of pressure in the cell is too high. (For example, if you battery over-charges and reaches over 145psi.)
- Works by releasing the connection of the positive terminal, rendering the plus pole useless.
- Does not always reset, does not always open completely when needed
- May not work when module included multi-cell series and/or parallel configurations
Fuses and tabs that connect batteries joined together are designed to break the circuit under high voltage.
Figure 2. External short circuiting under Vacuum conditions. By NASA.
Bimetallic disconnects
Figure 3. How a bimetallic disconnect on 18650 batteries work from HVAC.
Temperature changes will let the metals expand or contract. When bimetallic blade is 'closed' or 'down' it provides contact and forms a circuit. Because the current provides heat, the metal begins to expand. This prevents the temperature from ever getting too hot or too cold.
External protective devices:
Diodes
You've probably heard of LEDs (light emitting diodes), but what is a diode? It's like a valve, and only let's current flow one way. For a better understanding, check out this video:
Vents
- Basically little holes at the top of your battery
- Will spew toxic chemicals like ether instead of exploding
- Sometimes called PTC resistors
- Often hidden just beneath the positive cap
- Highly recommended for older lithium ion batteries.
- Not necessary in newer, safer chemistries like INR
- Mainly used in flash-lights, NOT in vaporizers or other high-drain applications
- Limits amp discharge to 6A or lower
- Protects against, over-charge, over-discharge, short-circuiting, and potentially other things.
Figure 4. A close-up of an 18650 PCB protection board
This board has the following features:
- Over-charge protection
- Charge protection
- Over-discharge protection
- Over-current protection
- Short protection
Figure 5. The anatomy of a protected 18650 battery by Lygte Info
Does your battery have protection circuitry?
18650 batteries sold in the US are required to have CID and PTC protection. However most cells for vaporizers are sold without PCB's. This is because the PCB will limit the amp discharge of your battery to 6A, when vaporizers need 10A - 30A.
To know whether your battery has PCB protection, there are a few signs:
- Your battery is longer than the unprotected version (use Best 18650 Battery to look-up the size).
- The bottom of your battery is not steel (the color is copper, or some other color different from your top cap).
- You can feel the wire running from the negative pole to the positive pole on the side of your battery.
Tesla uses 18650 batteries but has modified them. They have taken out the PTC and CID protection circuitry and made them truly bare-bones. Instead of relying on these protection devices, TESLA has made their own out of a type of foam that floods the battery module and prevents fire.
Comments
Dan Cronin on August 14 2019 at 01:14AM
Does anyone manufacture 3.2V prismatic cells with similar internal protective devices? I’ve been unable to find out if these even exist.
Ray on June 01 2019 at 05:43AM
I was wanting to know if you could possibly tell me what is the largest mAh rechargeable battery I can use in the Protac HPL flashlight? It comes with the 74175 Streamlight rechargeable battery, but I was hoping to go with a better battery which would allow me to go longer without recharging. I appreciate any assistance you might be able to lend and I look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks,
Ray
Conan on June 28 2018 at 12:32PM
Tesla uses the thin Aluminum wires running from cell to bus bar as fuses, this is e primary defense against shorts etc. NOT the fire retardant foam/adhesive that separates cells.
Matthew Najmon on January 18 2018 at 09:23PM
“Fuses and tabs that connect batteries joined together are designed to break the circuit under high voltage.”
Fuses are current-sensitive devices, not voltage-sensitive.
Davide Andrea on July 06 2017 at 12:18PM
Please let me point out that what you have there is a “cell” not a “battery”. “Battery” means “collection”, as in, a collection of cells, electronics, case, connector… You may want to edit this page, and replace “battery” with “cell” whenever appropriate. Thanks. Davide
Cristian Teodorescu on April 02 2017 at 07:24AM
I want information protection cell, battery modules and TESLA. Better information protection 18650 cells are obtained from http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/battery protection UK.html
Renard DellaFave on October 20 2016 at 04:42PM
PTC means Positive Temperature Coefficient, not Pressure Temperature Current. They can trip from heat instead of over-current but too much pressure (on them, like over crimping, not battery gas pressure) can make them not trip.
Kohn — LiIon batteries do not need to be “broken in”. They’re as good as they’ll ever be on their 1st cycle.
There is a “forming” process to establish the anode SEI layer but that must be done in the factory and is not something a home charger can do. That layer gets thicker with every charge and degrades performance.
Kohn on August 07 2016 at 11:31AM
I bought a femixpd35 tax 1000 lumen flashlight, along with the matching recharger. What is the best way to break in the new battery?
Alan on June 23 2016 at 04:16PM
Very interesting article. Is there a source for the last bit? the tesla part. I’d like to learn more on that.
zhangulei
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锂电池安全，我既然在CFC贴了，就需要负责地更正一些概念。
1. CID启动的休眠锂电池，说明内部已经损坏。变换电压，依旧无法充电（断路状态）。可以通过机械方式破坏CID（强制通路），然后即可充电使用。但是有危险！@OTTAWA TJ @向问天
2. 休眠电池，CID没有启动，说明，内部没有问题。但是不能充电，是因为长期放置电压过低，充电器电路无法识别电池所致。这种情况下，可以尝试使用其他充电器，或者非标准电压，提升电池电压。直到原版充电器可以识别该电池。这种情况，内部没有损伤，应该没有风险。而且，恢复过程，不破坏CID。因此，电池依然在CID保护电路的保护之下。一旦有异常，保护电路依然会启动。几乎没有风险。
3. 电动汽车还是暂时别开了。特斯拉的电池组把单个电池的CID去掉了。完全靠外部设备防爆。。。这样很危险。@王姐。单个电池如果出问题过热，保护装置不能及时察觉并启动防护。如果这是真的，特斯拉在玩火。
1. CID启动的休眠锂电池，说明内部已经损坏。变换电压，依旧无法充电（断路状态）。可以通过机械方式破坏CID（强制通路），然后即可充电使用。但是有危险！@OTTAWA TJ @向问天
2. 休眠电池，CID没有启动，说明，内部没有问题。但是不能充电，是因为长期放置电压过低，充电器电路无法识别电池所致。这种情况下，可以尝试使用其他充电器，或者非标准电压，提升电池电压。直到原版充电器可以识别该电池。这种情况，内部没有损伤，应该没有风险。而且，恢复过程，不破坏CID。因此，电池依然在CID保护电路的保护之下。一旦有异常，保护电路依然会启动。几乎没有风险。
3. 电动汽车还是暂时别开了。特斯拉的电池组把单个电池的CID去掉了。完全靠外部设备防爆。。。这样很危险。@王姐。单个电池如果出问题过热，保护装置不能及时察觉并启动防护。如果这是真的，特斯拉在玩火。
zhangulei
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Part 1 Reviving a NiMH or NiCD Battery in the Freezer
- Make sure you don't have a lithium battery. ...
- Turn off and unplug your laptop. ...
- Remove the battery. ...
- Place the battery in a soft cloth bag. ...
- Place the bagged battery in a Ziploc bag. ...
- Leave the battery in the freezer for 10 hours. ...
- Recharge the battery.
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谢谢， 我来看看
zhangulei
干部。干是一种美德。
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锂电池组，CID未启动。可以一定程度上恢复。原理是一样的。
Repair Dead Laptop Battery
By Protriton in CircuitsComputers
Featured
About: A lover of nature, astronomy and cozy evenings in front of the wood stove. More About Protriton »
We all know it. Suddenly, your laptop battery stops working. It won't charge and the moment you pull out the charger the laptop turns off. You have a dead battery. I have a fix that will revive it.
Please notice, that we are only reviving a dead battery. If you have a "bad" battery that only holds smaller charges for a few minutes worth of work, then this is not the right instructable for you. If your battery is completely dead then read on!
Oh, and by the way.. I cannot be held responsible for any problems you may run into, like damaged battery cells, fires, explosions and any other damage. Continue on your own risk.
People are suing like crazy these days, I have to say that. Anyway, next step!
Teacher Notes
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: The Theory
A laptop battery typically consists of three battery pairs. Each pair is two battery cells soldered together in parallel. When you connect battery cells in parallel the voltage stays the same but you increase the capacity of the entire package (you can "pull more amps" out of them, more electrons).
Typically each battery cell (and thus pair) is 3.7 V. Now, when you connect them in series (be it individual cells or aforementioned pairs), you increase the voltage, thus getting 3. 7 x 3 = 11.1 V.
Too long, didn't read: each pack has to be 3.7 V.
Now, why isn't it charging? That's because one of the pairs does not have the same voltage as the others, making it impossible for the computer to charge them all at the same time.
Step 2: The Battleplan
We are going to open the laptop battery and examine each of the three "pairs". They need to have the same voltage. If not, we are going to recharge the pair with the low voltage back to 3.7 V.
Step 3: Tools
Unplug charger, turn over your laptop and locate the battery on the backside of the laptop.
It may have two buttons like mine. One is a lock, push it away from the battery. Now push the other button away and pull out the battery.
Step 5: Remove Paper
Now flip it over again. You will see a side with text. What you are looking at is a thick piece of special paper. We can safely peel that off with a small cutter or any sharp object. You really just need to start the peeling with the cutter and continue with your fingers.
Step 6: Pop Open the Lid
2 More Images
Now you are looking at this. That is actually a lid that is popped on.
You may need to use your screwdriver to put in the "crevice", turn it around and make it pop open that way. Once it has popped up, just remove it with your fingers as shown.
Step 7: Out Comes the Batteries
Gently lift the batteries from one end, then the other to make sure, that they are not sticking. Now turn it over and let the batteries fall out into your hand. Make sure that the circuit board also comes out together with the batteries.
Step 8: Seperate the Cells
Seperate the three pairs of cells just a bit so we can do some measuring on them. Also, get your multimeter.
As you can see, they are soldered together in pairs, so it doesn't matter where you put your multimeter tip. You will be measuring the voltage of the pair.
Step 9: Start Measuring
The voltage has to be 3.7 V. With that in mind, start measuring.
As you can see, the middle pair is bad here.
Step 10: Get Your Charger
Now we start the fixing process!
Get your charger. Determine which wire is the positive and which is the negative. Often there is a white or grey line on one of the wires. If not, just use a bit of tape. Now measure with your multimeter. If the voltage displayed is a positive number, then the red tip is touching the positive and the black tip the negative.
If the voltage displayed is negative, then it's the other way around.
Yes, I am measuring 11.9 V. That's because I didn't have a low voltage charger laying around, but if you do this, you may damage your cells. I didn't care a whole lot, though, and I haven't noticed any damage even though I've done this twice now.
Step 11: Help It Back to Life
Put your positive wire on the positive end of the battery and the negative on the negative. Recharge for a minute. Then wait 10-20 seconds before measuring. That is because the voltage in the cells will fall when you stop charging them. Here, I have already increased the voltage quite a bit.
When you think you have finally hit the correct voltage, wait half a minute and remeasure to make sure that it doesn't need a little more.
Step 12: Put It Back
2 More Images
Push the cells back together and put them down the battery cover as shown. Make sure, that the circuit board is all the way in (you can't do it wrong).
Put back the lid, it will pop in. Put back the sticker and if it doesn't stick (it really should), just use some transparent tape or glue.
Repair Dead Laptop Battery
By Protriton in CircuitsComputers
Featured
About: A lover of nature, astronomy and cozy evenings in front of the wood stove. More About Protriton »
We all know it. Suddenly, your laptop battery stops working. It won't charge and the moment you pull out the charger the laptop turns off. You have a dead battery. I have a fix that will revive it.
Please notice, that we are only reviving a dead battery. If you have a "bad" battery that only holds smaller charges for a few minutes worth of work, then this is not the right instructable for you. If your battery is completely dead then read on!
Oh, and by the way.. I cannot be held responsible for any problems you may run into, like damaged battery cells, fires, explosions and any other damage. Continue on your own risk.
People are suing like crazy these days, I have to say that. Anyway, next step!
Teacher Notes
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: The Theory
A laptop battery typically consists of three battery pairs. Each pair is two battery cells soldered together in parallel. When you connect battery cells in parallel the voltage stays the same but you increase the capacity of the entire package (you can "pull more amps" out of them, more electrons).
Typically each battery cell (and thus pair) is 3.7 V. Now, when you connect them in series (be it individual cells or aforementioned pairs), you increase the voltage, thus getting 3. 7 x 3 = 11.1 V.
Too long, didn't read: each pack has to be 3.7 V.
Now, why isn't it charging? That's because one of the pairs does not have the same voltage as the others, making it impossible for the computer to charge them all at the same time.
Step 2: The Battleplan
We are going to open the laptop battery and examine each of the three "pairs". They need to have the same voltage. If not, we are going to recharge the pair with the low voltage back to 3.7 V.
Step 3: Tools
- Multimeter (cheap and useful)
- Charger, around 4-5 V
- Small cutter, to remove the paper on the battery.
- Screwdriver to pop open the battery
Unplug charger, turn over your laptop and locate the battery on the backside of the laptop.
It may have two buttons like mine. One is a lock, push it away from the battery. Now push the other button away and pull out the battery.
Step 5: Remove Paper
Now flip it over again. You will see a side with text. What you are looking at is a thick piece of special paper. We can safely peel that off with a small cutter or any sharp object. You really just need to start the peeling with the cutter and continue with your fingers.
Step 6: Pop Open the Lid
2 More Images
Now you are looking at this. That is actually a lid that is popped on.
You may need to use your screwdriver to put in the "crevice", turn it around and make it pop open that way. Once it has popped up, just remove it with your fingers as shown.
Step 7: Out Comes the Batteries
Gently lift the batteries from one end, then the other to make sure, that they are not sticking. Now turn it over and let the batteries fall out into your hand. Make sure that the circuit board also comes out together with the batteries.
Step 8: Seperate the Cells
Seperate the three pairs of cells just a bit so we can do some measuring on them. Also, get your multimeter.
As you can see, they are soldered together in pairs, so it doesn't matter where you put your multimeter tip. You will be measuring the voltage of the pair.
Step 9: Start Measuring
The voltage has to be 3.7 V. With that in mind, start measuring.
As you can see, the middle pair is bad here.
Step 10: Get Your Charger
Now we start the fixing process!
Get your charger. Determine which wire is the positive and which is the negative. Often there is a white or grey line on one of the wires. If not, just use a bit of tape. Now measure with your multimeter. If the voltage displayed is a positive number, then the red tip is touching the positive and the black tip the negative.
If the voltage displayed is negative, then it's the other way around.
Yes, I am measuring 11.9 V. That's because I didn't have a low voltage charger laying around, but if you do this, you may damage your cells. I didn't care a whole lot, though, and I haven't noticed any damage even though I've done this twice now.
Step 11: Help It Back to Life
Put your positive wire on the positive end of the battery and the negative on the negative. Recharge for a minute. Then wait 10-20 seconds before measuring. That is because the voltage in the cells will fall when you stop charging them. Here, I have already increased the voltage quite a bit.
When you think you have finally hit the correct voltage, wait half a minute and remeasure to make sure that it doesn't need a little more.
Step 12: Put It Back
2 More Images
Push the cells back together and put them down the battery cover as shown. Make sure, that the circuit board is all the way in (you can't do it wrong).
Put back the lid, it will pop in. Put back the sticker and if it doesn't stick (it really should), just use some transparent tape or glue.
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