庆国庆中秋晚会的几张随拍（PP分享）
- 主题发起人 luckylins
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最初由 GangW 发布
Really good.
My experience for stage photo ---- Manual mode, bigger aperture, not too slow shutter speed, RAW format to adjust WB, take more to capture the moment.
advantage of the fixed fucos length lens ----- bigger aperture.
advantage of the zoom lens -------- easy composition.
My two cents.
GangW: Thanks for sharing. Could you elaborate a bit why you choose manual mode ?
As to RAW vs. JPEG, I use RAW all the time since I really like the flexibility to adjust WB after the fact.
fad
why I choose manual mode?
I prepared the answer xx years ago when I gave the lecture to my students.
As we know, EV(exposure value)=k*A*T where A ---- aperture, T ---- shutter speed, k ------- coefficient. In order to get a "correct" EV, the bigger aperture, the smaller shutter speed. In the normal case, the coefficient k is a constant. That is, if you reduce the aperture 2 stops you have to increase shutter speed 2 stops. For an automatic camera the exposure meter will give out the aperture value if you select a shutter speed (T mode, or shutter priority ), or converse, it's A mode (aperture priority). If you choose "P" mode you don't care about aperture and shutter speed, the meter gives out the exposure value, which is automatically controlled based on the formula EV=k*A*T.
But, but, but ............
in the cases such as too dark, too bright, the coefficient k is not a constant. Or we say the reverse law is void. In these cases, there is a bigger error if you use auto or program mode without a proper compensated EV. So in these cases choosing the manual mode is easier for you to get the "optimized exposure". As an experienced shotbugger, you should know why you increase the EV when you take at the snow scence, and reduce the EV at sunrise or sunset.
My two cents.
PS: Even 10D, there is no point metering, setting the metering mode as "paritial" is better.
I prepared the answer xx years ago when I gave the lecture to my students.
As we know, EV(exposure value)=k*A*T where A ---- aperture, T ---- shutter speed, k ------- coefficient. In order to get a "correct" EV, the bigger aperture, the smaller shutter speed. In the normal case, the coefficient k is a constant. That is, if you reduce the aperture 2 stops you have to increase shutter speed 2 stops. For an automatic camera the exposure meter will give out the aperture value if you select a shutter speed (T mode, or shutter priority ), or converse, it's A mode (aperture priority). If you choose "P" mode you don't care about aperture and shutter speed, the meter gives out the exposure value, which is automatically controlled based on the formula EV=k*A*T.
But, but, but ............
in the cases such as too dark, too bright, the coefficient k is not a constant. Or we say the reverse law is void. In these cases, there is a bigger error if you use auto or program mode without a proper compensated EV. So in these cases choosing the manual mode is easier for you to get the "optimized exposure". As an experienced shotbugger, you should know why you increase the EV when you take at the snow scence, and reduce the EV at sunrise or sunset.
My two cents.
PS: Even 10D, there is no point metering, setting the metering mode as "paritial" is better.
最初由 GangW 发布
why I choose manual mode?
I prepared the answer xx years ago when I gave the lecture to my students.
As we know, EV(exposure value)=k*A*T where A ---- aperture, T ---- shutter speed, k ------- coefficient. In order to get a "correct" EV, the bigger aperture, the smaller shutter speed. In the normal case, the coefficient k is a constant. That is, if you reduce the aperture 2 stops you have to increase shutter speed 2 stops. For an automatic camera the exposure meter will give out the aperture value if you select a shutter speed (T mode, or shutter priority ), or converse, it's A mode (aperture priority). If you choose "P" mode you don't care about aperture and shutter speed, the meter gives out the exposure value, which is automatically controlled based on the formula EV=k*A*T.
But, but, but ............
in the cases such as too dark, too bright, the coefficient k is not a constant. Or we say the reverse law is void. In these cases, there is a bigger error if you use auto or program mode without a proper compensated EV. So in these cases choosing the manual mode is easier for you to get the "optimized exposure". As an experienced shotbugger, you should know why you increase the EV when you take at the snow scence, and reduce the EV at sunrise or sunset.
My two cents.
PS: Even 10D, there is no point metering, setting the metering mode as "paritial" is better.
Thanks for the detailed education. Very helpful. In case of constant need of exposure compensation I guess manual mode is more convinient than dial in AEC.
I also use partial metering but 12% is too big to be considered as a spot. Being fooled more than once ...
fad
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最初由 GangW 发布
why I choose manual mode?
I prepared the answer xx years ago when I gave the lecture to my students.
As we know, EV(exposure value)=k*A*T where A ---- aperture, T ---- shutter speed, k ------- coefficient. In order to get a "correct" EV, the bigger aperture, the smaller shutter speed. In the normal case, the coefficient k is a constant. That is, if you reduce the aperture 2 stops you have to increase shutter speed 2 stops. For an automatic camera the exposure meter will give out the aperture value if you select a shutter speed (T mode, or shutter priority ), or converse, it's A mode (aperture priority). If you choose "P" mode you don't care about aperture and shutter speed, the meter gives out the exposure value, which is automatically controlled based on the formula EV=k*A*T.
But, but, but ............
in the cases such as too dark, too bright, the coefficient k is not a constant. Or we say the reverse law is void. In these cases, there is a bigger error if you use auto or program mode without a proper compensated EV. So in these cases choosing the manual mode is easier for you to get the "optimized exposure". As an experienced shotbugger, you should know why you increase the EV when you take at the snow scence, and reduce the EV at sunrise or sunset.
My two cents.
PS: Even 10D, there is no point metering, setting the metering mode as "paritial" is better.
建议各位色友作为教材收藏!! (I did.)
