精华 [实验报告] plywood vs foam
- 主题发起人 小傻
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国内用泡沫材料的来由可长了。六十年代北京建了第一个加气混凝土厂，八十年代又有灌注的加气树脂材料。到我出国前，北京就已经大面积使用泡沫材料复合外墙－－即所谓“内浇外挂”。墙板是工厂预制的，用泡沫材料做夹心。
这类玩艺的保温总是不如矿棉／玻璃纤维填充。它的优点，一是便于工厂预制，二是轻。对北京一年六百万平米的工程量，工厂预制在经济上和技术上都会有些优势。另外，在八度抗震设防的北京，重量也是个挺要紧的指标。
可在渥太华，房子本来就轻，又没有抗震设防的要求，再加上外墙的保温已经不差了。用泡沫板做sheething，对用户似乎没什么突出的优点。
要是我去买房，不会因泡沫板而给房子加分或减分。可经傻兄弟这么一说，我还真得找个地方看看这房子是怎么盖的。
我打电话问了tamarakHeavnley 的主销售员，就是在foam上直接挂sidings，说这是engergy star的要求。您可以去heavenley 亲自去看看在建的样板房，据说就在sales office acroos from.回答我的michael 答应把有关解释材料传真给我，并建议去现场看看。
now it's up to you experts like 基础墙 to explain to us lay people if this is an asset to your porperty or just a hype to make you pay more.
thanks in advance.
I've requested tartan to show me their geo tech report for the porperty I've put a depsosit on-it's in findley creek. I might need some clarifications from you guys.
kevin_than
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我对 plywood 和 foam 都不内行。只是有一个想法：
plywood 主要是木料制成，刚开始时强度等性能一定较好，但时间长了是否容易腐烂？这样过了若干年后其性能就相对差了。 可是 foam 相对来讲不容易腐烂。所以从长期来讲是否 foam 更好？
plywood 主要是木料制成，刚开始时强度等性能一定较好，但时间长了是否容易腐烂？这样过了若干年后其性能就相对差了。 可是 foam 相对来讲不容易腐烂。所以从长期来讲是否 foam 更好？
不是昨夜哥们，是期终考试！
below is my wife's directions, 仅供参考而已，能不能找到看你的运气了，到了那儿不懂的可以问（开卷考试），别忘了明天交卷！
Take Prince of Wales Dr. and go to south, pass Hunt Club Rd., drive around 10 mintues, (Prince of Wales Dr. becomes highway 16,) Heavenley is on your right. There is a big sign, you can't miss it. It is part of Barheven, both Tartan and Tamarack are building their last phase there. If you go to tamarack's website at www.tamarackhomes.com, you can also find the direction there.
Let us know your findings.
大哥辛苦了。
below is my wife's directions, 仅供参考而已，能不能找到看你的运气了，到了那儿不懂的可以问（开卷考试），别忘了明天交卷！
Take Prince of Wales Dr. and go to south, pass Hunt Club Rd., drive around 10 mintues, (Prince of Wales Dr. becomes highway 16,) Heavenley is on your right. There is a big sign, you can't miss it. It is part of Barheven, both Tartan and Tamarack are building their last phase there. If you go to tamarack's website at www.tamarackhomes.com, you can also find the direction there.
Let us know your findings.
大哥辛苦了。
I find a website has some information about this problem and how it is done.
Here is the part of that page.
http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publications/articles/insulating_on_the_outside.html
"******************
Installation
Adding a layer of rigid foam to the walls of any building is somewhat labor intensive. When properly constructed, it provides a tight, dry, warm, and durable structure. Re-siding an existing home presents an opportunity to upgrade the home’s energy performance. But adding foam requires fussy detailing for trim and flashing. Windows, doors and trim must be built out and the flashing sealed to the foam sheathing.
Polyisocyanurate, molded expanded polystyrene (MEPS), and extruded expanded polystyrene (XEPS) are common sheathing choices. Foam sheathing is fastened to the structural sheathing or framing with broad-head nails, wide plastic washers, and/or adhesive caulk that is compatible with the foam. Check with the manufacturer before using any adhesive because solvents found in some adhesives eat foam. The layer of foam sheathing should be continuous and tight. Tape all the joints with a high quality construction tape, not duct tape. Good choices include 3M contractor’s tape, TU-TUF 4 Tape, and Insultape III. Installing a layer of foam will improve the R-value and improve air tightness when sealed.
Fastening of siding can be tricky. You can install vinyl siding directly over foam as long as your nails extend through it and attach firmly to a solid nail base. The Vinyl Siding Institute recommends 3/4-inch nail penetration, but the International Residential Code requires 1 1/2 inch nail penetration for vinyl siding. This means you must target the underlying studs even when foam overlays structural sheathing. Check your local code on this issue. When it comes to installing wood siding over foam be careful. I don’t think builders should install wood siding directly over plastic foam insulation.
Wood siding applied directly to foam has a history of failures. Nailing wood siding directly to foam doesn’t work because nails have to be extra long to reach through the siding and foam to a solid nail base. Long nails have a larger diameter that can split the siding unless every nail hole is predrilled. Plastic foam traps heat and moisture beneath the siding. Hot sun can overheat wood siding causing it to dry excessively and crack. Foam is less permeable to water vapor and the back of the siding stays wet as the face of the siding dries. As a result, the siding cups, cracks and sheds paint. Wood siding needs an air space between its backside and the face of foam sheathing.
""*********************
Here is the part of that page.
http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publications/articles/insulating_on_the_outside.html
"******************
Installation
Adding a layer of rigid foam to the walls of any building is somewhat labor intensive. When properly constructed, it provides a tight, dry, warm, and durable structure. Re-siding an existing home presents an opportunity to upgrade the home’s energy performance. But adding foam requires fussy detailing for trim and flashing. Windows, doors and trim must be built out and the flashing sealed to the foam sheathing.
Polyisocyanurate, molded expanded polystyrene (MEPS), and extruded expanded polystyrene (XEPS) are common sheathing choices. Foam sheathing is fastened to the structural sheathing or framing with broad-head nails, wide plastic washers, and/or adhesive caulk that is compatible with the foam. Check with the manufacturer before using any adhesive because solvents found in some adhesives eat foam. The layer of foam sheathing should be continuous and tight. Tape all the joints with a high quality construction tape, not duct tape. Good choices include 3M contractor’s tape, TU-TUF 4 Tape, and Insultape III. Installing a layer of foam will improve the R-value and improve air tightness when sealed.
Fastening of siding can be tricky. You can install vinyl siding directly over foam as long as your nails extend through it and attach firmly to a solid nail base. The Vinyl Siding Institute recommends 3/4-inch nail penetration, but the International Residential Code requires 1 1/2 inch nail penetration for vinyl siding. This means you must target the underlying studs even when foam overlays structural sheathing. Check your local code on this issue. When it comes to installing wood siding over foam be careful. I don’t think builders should install wood siding directly over plastic foam insulation.
Wood siding applied directly to foam has a history of failures. Nailing wood siding directly to foam doesn’t work because nails have to be extra long to reach through the siding and foam to a solid nail base. Long nails have a larger diameter that can split the siding unless every nail hole is predrilled. Plastic foam traps heat and moisture beneath the siding. Hot sun can overheat wood siding causing it to dry excessively and crack. Foam is less permeable to water vapor and the back of the siding stays wet as the face of the siding dries. As a result, the siding cups, cracks and sheds paint. Wood siding needs an air space between its backside and the face of foam sheathing.
""*********************
