DIY oil seperator/catch can - Preventative maint for your car

broken_cougar99

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First, let start with some background and explain the reason for this DIY.

Most modern car are equipped with a crank case ventilation system. In most case, it is Positive Crankcase Valve, known as PCV. Some exotic cars such as BWM, Audi, VW uses Crank case breather with oil separator. This system is designed to relief pressure due to Fuel mixture escape through piston rings into crankcase and mixed with engine oil vapor.

For PCV system, the fuel & air mixture and the oil vapor in the crankcase is redirected to the PCV which goes back into intake manifold and hopefully it will burn through combustion.

For Crankcase breather with oil separator system, the fuel & air mixture and oil vapor goes through the oil separator, which turns the engine oil vapor to liquid again, the engine oil is redirected into the lubrication system - this process usually end up with bring contamination into lubrication system. The fuel & air mixture along with remaining of oil vapor is redirected to intake manifold for further combustion.

In both case, the oil vapor will still enter intake manifold and burn during combustion which causing engine oil consumption and carbon build up in intake and valves. Especially on "sportier" engines such as a turbo/supercharged setup engine - VW and Audi has tech bulletin stated 0.5 liter / 1000 km engine oil consumption is normal. I believe BMW has similar bulletin.

This DIY will help to eliminate the carbon build up(will not effect the engine oil consumption).

Parts List
1. Crankcase ventilation hose, knowns as PCV hose (fuel hose, hydraulic hose or any high pressure hose that can withstand heat and fuel) - length will vary on cars - in my case $7 from Canadian tire.
2. Some hose Clamps - In my case, 4 @ $0.97/each.
3. Air compressor filter(about $30.00 for homedepot or hardware store).
4. Couple of cold beers.

Procedure
1. Locate Crankcase ventilation hose from Crankcase to PCV
2. Using new PCV hose to reroute the hose to Air compressor filter.
3. Secure air compressor filter in engine compartment.
4. Using New PCV hose to connect the air compressor to intake manifold.
5. Secure all hose with hose clamp.
6. Start the engine and watch the Air compressor filter filled with dirty oil.
7. Empty oil every couple thousands km (this may vary on cars).

I will try to load some pictures once I figure out how..:confused:
 
catch can对于NA的车来说用处不是那么大
 
catch can对于NA的车来说用处不是那么大
Once I get the picture uploaded, I can show you why is it useful....
BTW, this DIY was done on my Current crappy ride - Impreza 2.2L N/A

It doesn't matter whether it's NA or charged, if your engine is loaded with high temp and pressure - which causes oil vapor, these oil vapor will go through you intake manifold and burn causing carbon.
 
carbon build up在非FI, DI的情况下很少见,除非你engine有问题。平时喷的油就把intake valve上清洗干净了

filter出来油是肯定有的,问题是你得能证明有carbon build up而不是正常燃烧了
 
carbon build up在非FI, DI的情况下很少见,除非你engine有问题。平时喷的油就把intake valve上清洗干净了

filter出来油是肯定有的,问题是你得能证明有carbon build up而不是正常燃烧了

Since we are in a debate here, my question to you is ....

1. How would you prove normal engine operation will not cause carbon build up - would you take a bet if I was offering you to remove any NA setup car's intake manifold with approx 80000 plus km of your choice, and check with you to see if there is carbon build up or not(of course, I could do it myself or if you want, we can get a licensed tech at loser's cost).

2. Engine oil is not designed to be combusted. When burning engine oil, carbon will build up which is why even on normal NA BMW's engine, they have oil separator to prevent engine oil go into intake manifold (and of course, on the "mighty bimmer", the oil goes through oil separator causing contamination goes back to oil pan).

3. As I have stated on original post, for VW 2.0 NA engine, up to .50 litre is considered to be normal as per VW - which is equal to 7.5 litre / 15000 km (note. 15000 km is the oil change interval as per VW factory recommendation). Those 2.0 litre don't even hold 7.5 litre engine oil. Do you think burning 7.5 liter of engine oil will not cause any carbon build up?

Last but not least, all engine setup will have carbon build up. It's just FI setup are worse than NA.
 
i pulled the heads off my old 98 intrepid at 12w KM, and no visible carbon build up. point proven?

Picture to prove? Like I said, if you want to take the bet or prove with actual facts. I can say I pull off the intake off my impreza with full carbon(which I actually did).
 
Picture to prove? Like I said, if you want to take the bet or prove with actual facts. I can say I pull off the intake off my impreza with full carbon(which I actually did).

did that while on a coop job using land lord's tools, rush job. no pics unfortunately. Not a fan of greasy hands

combustion chamber temp is over 500C, engine oil burns over 300C, meh.

And if you're talking about an H4 engine, they might have different issues.
 
Picture to prove? Like I said, if you want to take the bet or prove with actual facts. I can say I pull off the intake off my impreza with full carbon(which I actually did).

and see my link.
 
did that while on a coop job using land lord's tools, rush job. no pics unfortunately. Not a fan of greasy hands

combustion chamber temp is over 500C, engine oil burns over 300C, meh.

And if you're talking about an H4 engine, they might have different issues.

Since you have mentioned flashing point, fire point for engine oil, please try to burning engine oil and see what will happen. I am not saying it will not combustion. It's not designed for combustion. When combusted, you will see all weird things.
 
and see my link.

The head on the picture definitely has carbon build up....

You can even tell it was previously cleaned... lol

Comparing the old valve to the shining valves on 2nd picture. lol

[quote = http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...-000-mile-250-000-km-engine.html#post2111453] One of the pistons - original machining marks still clearly visible so hoping that these are all still in spec. there's a bit of carbon on these too, but no broken rings and they are still a good fit in the grooves[/quote] lol

With all these facts, I don't understand where you get the concept of no carbon build up.
 
Since you have mentioned flashing point, fire point for engine oil, please try to burning engine oil and see what will happen. I am not saying it will not combustion. It's not designed for combustion. When combusted, you will see all weird things.

All I'm saying is, OCC on NA is not worth the effort. Good job anyway, support DIY spirit, just question the reasoning behind it.

I don't even have an OCC on an FI,DI engine. 1L engine oil/20000KM is nothing

colleague's y2k M5 burns about 1L of oil per tank, and he doesn't even have an OCC.
 
The head on the picture definitely has carbon build up....

You can even tell it was previously cleaned... lol

Comparing the old valve to the shining valves on 2nd picture. lol

I know it's cleaned. But a coating of black carbon is nothing compared to Audi TFSI

you worry too much :D:D:D:D:D:D
 
All I'm saying is, OCC on NA is not worth the effort. Good job anyway, support DIY spirit, just question the reasoning behind it.

I don't even have an OCC on an FI,DI engine. 1L engine oil/20000KM is nothing

colleague's y2k M5 burns about 1L of oil per tank, and he doesn't even have an OCC.

I guess the debate is weather $50 to prevent engine oil entering intake is worth it or not... lol

Wanna bet your colleague's M5 full of carbon. lol
 
I guess the debate is weather $50 to prevent engine oil entering intake is worth it or not... lol

99% cars out there doesn't have an OCC and runs just fine :p

save the 50$ and buy some beer.. and dream about next car :cool:
 
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