请教风光摄影
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枫影居士
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- 2004-03-01
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如果我在photoshop里
拖一这样的蒙板，然后每个node的opacity都不一样
貌似也能出这个效果
不过可能没这么通透
Using the GND filter should be best. Just in case you forget it....[ZT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Digital Gradual Filter[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]written by Fred Miranda[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Georgia,Times][SIZE=-1]Canon D30, ISO 100, Canon 100mm f/2.8
[/SIZE][/FONT]
[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Ansel Adams once said, "You don't take a photograph, you make it". Perhaps he was right. There are so many factors involved in getting the perfect shot. The lighting, the timing, and the subject can vary. Fortunately, when limitations arise, you can sometimes salvage a decent shot by utilizing Photoshop techniques. As a photographer I am intrigued by how much I am still learning about the art of photography. Part of the learning process for me in the digital format, is learning how to effectively use Photoshop to help bring my images to life.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]There are several techniques that I have developed to aid in capturing a high contrast scene with extended dynamic range. In this article, I wish to share one of my favorite. We all know that there are dynamic range limitations when measuring exposure based on the lighting and subject contrast. To combat these limitations, most landscape photographers carry an invaluable tool called a gradual filter. This filter is nothing more than Split Neutral density filter with transitioning shades from dark to light. Some filters have a dark shade of 1, 2 or 3 stops which can also be combined if the situation requires.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]The following technique mimics the use of split neutral density filters. All you need is a tripod and a still subject. It's especially useful for landscape images with an apparent horizontal or vertical division between the areas of contrast.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]You will need two exposures for each image. However, if you are lucky enough to own a digital camera that offers a linear mode, you only have to shoot one image. (Ex: Canon D30*)[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Here are the steps:
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]1) Take two pictures. One picture should be well exposed to the foreground, with the background overexposed. For example, if your background is a bright sky, the sky will appear overexposed since you've exposed for the foreground. Let's call this first image "Overexposed".
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Then, for the second shot, do the exact opposite. This time your foreground will appear "underexposed", and your background well exposed.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]2) Bring both images into Photoshop. Make sure you convert them to 8-bit mode.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]3) Drag the overexposed picture on top of the underexposed one, while holding the SHIFT key. This will place them into 2 perfectly aligned layers.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]4) Make a layer mask for the "overexposed" image by clicking on the layer mask icon at the bottom of the layers palette.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]5) Click on the layer mask to make it active, and then select the linear gradient tool.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]6) Drag a line from the top of the image toward the bottom until you reach the part of the image that it's not overexposed[/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]There are several techniques that I have developed to aid in capturing a high contrast scene with extended dynamic range. In this article, I wish to share one of my favorite. We all know that there are dynamic range limitations when measuring exposure based on the lighting and subject contrast. To combat these limitations, most landscape photographers carry an invaluable tool called a gradual filter. This filter is nothing more than Split Neutral density filter with transitioning shades from dark to light. Some filters have a dark shade of 1, 2 or 3 stops which can also be combined if the situation requires.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]The following technique mimics the use of split neutral density filters. All you need is a tripod and a still subject. It's especially useful for landscape images with an apparent horizontal or vertical division between the areas of contrast.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]You will need two exposures for each image. However, if you are lucky enough to own a digital camera that offers a linear mode, you only have to shoot one image. (Ex: Canon D30*)[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Here are the steps:
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]1) Take two pictures. One picture should be well exposed to the foreground, with the background overexposed. For example, if your background is a bright sky, the sky will appear overexposed since you've exposed for the foreground. Let's call this first image "Overexposed".
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Then, for the second shot, do the exact opposite. This time your foreground will appear "underexposed", and your background well exposed.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]2) Bring both images into Photoshop. Make sure you convert them to 8-bit mode.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]3) Drag the overexposed picture on top of the underexposed one, while holding the SHIFT key. This will place them into 2 perfectly aligned layers.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]4) Make a layer mask for the "overexposed" image by clicking on the layer mask icon at the bottom of the layers palette.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]5) Click on the layer mask to make it active, and then select the linear gradient tool.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]6) Drag a line from the top of the image toward the bottom until you reach the part of the image that it's not overexposed[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]The gradient you just created on the layer mask is the "digital split density filter". Now you can control the intensity of the effect by using the "Opacity" slider.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]*Note: D30 users only need 1 RAW file converted to 2 images. First convert your RAW file into a non-linear image (overexposed). Next, convert the same file to a linear image (underexposed). Then, follow the same steps. Place the underexposed image on the bottom layer and the overexposed image on the top layer. For the non-linear file, use "High" contrast when converting the RAW file.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Below is the underexposed, overexposed and final image:[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial](some extra history brush retouch done to the final image)[/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]*Note: D30 users only need 1 RAW file converted to 2 images. First convert your RAW file into a non-linear image (overexposed). Next, convert the same file to a linear image (underexposed). Then, follow the same steps. Place the underexposed image on the bottom layer and the overexposed image on the top layer. For the non-linear file, use "High" contrast when converting the RAW file.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Below is the underexposed, overexposed and final image:[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial](some extra history brush retouch done to the final image)[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]So, the next time you are out there shooting, if you accidentally forget your gradual filter -- don't panic. Now you have a new technique to help you save those once lost images.[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial][end of ZT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial][end of ZT]
[/FONT]
But never say never. 
- 注册
- 2004-09-04
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谢谢文章，
或者直接拿快门线，高速连拍个10张，来个HDR也成
不过一个镜子能搞定那么多事，挺爽
或者直接拿快门线，高速连拍个10张，来个HDR也成
不过一个镜子能搞定那么多事，挺爽
[ZT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Digital Gradual Filter[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]written by Fred Miranda[/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Georgia,Times][SIZE=-1]Bryce Canyon-Utah[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Georgia,Times][SIZE=-1]Canon D30, ISO 100, Canon 100mm f/2.8
[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Ansel Adams once said, "You don't take a photograph, you make it". Perhaps he was right. There are so many factors involved in getting the perfect shot. The lighting, the timing, and the subject can vary. Fortunately, when limitations arise, you can sometimes salvage a decent shot by utilizing Photoshop techniques. As a photographer I am intrigued by how much I am still learning about the art of photography. Part of the learning process for me in the digital format, is learning how to effectively use Photoshop to help bring my images to life.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]There are several techniques that I have developed to aid in capturing a high contrast scene with extended dynamic range. In this article, I wish to share one of my favorite. We all know that there are dynamic range limitations when measuring exposure based on the lighting and subject contrast. To combat these limitations, most landscape photographers carry an invaluable tool called a gradual filter. This filter is nothing more than Split Neutral density filter with transitioning shades from dark to light. Some filters have a dark shade of 1, 2 or 3 stops which can also be combined if the situation requires.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]The following technique mimics the use of split neutral density filters. All you need is a tripod and a still subject. It's especially useful for landscape images with an apparent horizontal or vertical division between the areas of contrast.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]You will need two exposures for each image. However, if you are lucky enough to own a digital camera that offers a linear mode, you only have to shoot one image. (Ex: Canon D30*)[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Here are the steps:
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]1) Take two pictures. One picture should be well exposed to the foreground, with the background overexposed. For example, if your background is a bright sky, the sky will appear overexposed since you've exposed for the foreground. Let's call this first image "Overexposed".
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Then, for the second shot, do the exact opposite. This time your foreground will appear "underexposed", and your background well exposed.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]2) Bring both images into Photoshop. Make sure you convert them to 8-bit mode.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]3) Drag the overexposed picture on top of the underexposed one, while holding the SHIFT key. This will place them into 2 perfectly aligned layers.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]4) Make a layer mask for the "overexposed" image by clicking on the layer mask icon at the bottom of the layers palette.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]5) Click on the layer mask to make it active, and then select the linear gradient tool.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]6) Drag a line from the top of the image toward the bottom until you reach the part of the image that it's not overexposed[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial][/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]The gradient you just created on the layer mask is the "digital split density filter". Now you can control the intensity of the effect by using the "Opacity" slider.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]*Note: D30 users only need 1 RAW file converted to 2 images. First convert your RAW file into a non-linear image (overexposed). Next, convert the same file to a linear image (underexposed). Then, follow the same steps. Place the underexposed image on the bottom layer and the overexposed image on the top layer. For the non-linear file, use "High" contrast when converting the RAW file.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]Below is the underexposed, overexposed and final image:[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial](some extra history brush retouch done to the final image)[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial][/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial][/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial][/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial]So, the next time you are out there shooting, if you accidentally forget your gradual filter -- don't panic. Now you have a new technique to help you save those once lost images.[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial][end of ZT]
[/FONT]
